The Seine glided beneath me, the iconic Eiffel Tower shimmering like a diamond against the cerulean September sky. A bottle of Champagne popped, its bubbly contents filling my glass as the captain invited me to capture the moment. I raised my glass, feeling the sunshine warm my skin. This was it – my first taste of Paris, a city I was exploring through the lens of American culinary legend Julia Child.
My own connection to food began in this very city. At three years old, I moved to Paris with my family, and memories of baguette purchases with my mother at the neighborhood boulangerie are etched in my mind. The crackle of the crust, the scent of fresh bread, and the sweet taste of a pain au chocolat for my goûter – these experiences ignited my love for food. As our family moved – first to Scotland, then Indonesia, and finally back to the United States – I discovered that food was my ticket to belonging, a bridge to understanding different cultures. But it was through writing about my Paris memories that I truly found my voice.
Julia Child’s legacy is woven into the fabric of Parisian culinary history. Her book, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, a timeless masterpiece, changed the way Americans cook. And her television show, The French Chef, brought the joy of French cuisine into countless homes. Could she ever have imagined that one day her story would be celebrated in the very bookstore where she once pursued French culinary knowledge, the iconic Shakespeare & Co.? Could she have foreseen the generations she would inspire to embrace their creativity in the kitchen? Following Julia’s footsteps, I was determined to not only taste and cook like her but also to delve deeper into her enduring impact.
A Taste of Julia’s Paris
The Hôtel Pont Royal, a historic gem in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, was where Julia and her husband Paul first settled in Paris. While I chose a more modern abode at the nearby Hotel d’Aubusson, I felt a sense of connection to her. Just a short walk away, I found myself at Les Deux Magots, a Parisian institution that holds a special place in Julia’s heart. She famously had her first Parisian breakfast here, and I savored a café crème while watching parents usher their children to school. Julia’s go-to was a café complet, a simple yet satisfying combination of coffee, viennoiserie, baguette, and butter. But I decided to indulge in a Hemingway omelet, paying homage to Julia’s love for French culinary classics.
Café de Flore, another iconic spot in the sixth arrondissement, is a haven for locals and tourists alike. Under its signature awning, I found myself surrounded by the energy of Parisian life – small round tables, woven chairs, and the quintessential red-and-green-woven stool that held extra bread baskets or purses. I sat among the spirits of literary greats and intellectuals, enjoying a salade Niçoise with a side of perfectly crisp potato chips. This, I knew, was the essence of Parisian dining – a charming ambiance, delicious food, and a touch of history.
