Nestled in the heart of Paris’s 6th arrondissement, on the charming Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, lies the Café Procope. This iconic café, established in 1686 by the Sicilian chef Procopio Cutò, has witnessed centuries of Parisian history and continues to be a popular destination for locals and tourists alike. While often mistakenly hailed as the oldest café in continuous operation, the Café Procope has had a complex and fascinating past.
It’s true that the café’s origins can be traced back to 1686 when Cutò, who went by the French name François Procope, opened a kiosk selling refreshing drinks like lemonade and coffee. It wasn’t the first attempt at such a business in Paris, as an Armenian immigrant named Pascal had previously run a similar stall, but his venture failed, leaving Procope to inherit the spot.
From Humble Beginnings to Parisian Hotspot
In 1686, Cutò moved his kiosk to the Rue des Fossés-Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Initially, it was known as an “antre” due to its dimly lit interior. Cutò, however, wasn’t content with a simple stall. He purchased a bathhouse and, after removing its unique fixtures, transformed it into a café with modern European touches, like crystal chandeliers, wall mirrors, and marble tables. This upscale setting attracted the Parisian elite who were eager to indulge in exotic beverages like coffee and sorbets.
A Hub for Parisian Intellectuals
A stroke of luck arrived in 1689 when the Comédie-Française, a renowned theater, opened across the street from the café, contributing to its name change. This proximity drew actors, writers, musicians, and philosophers, turning the Café Procope into a vibrant intellectual hub.
The Café Procope’s Distinguished Clientele
One can’t help but marvel at the diverse clientele that frequented the café. The mix of personalities, from revolutionary thinkers like Robespierre and Danton to renowned writers like Voltaire and Rousseau, created an unparalleled atmosphere. In the 18th century, the Café Procope became the meeting place of the Encyclopedists, a group of intellectuals who contributed to the renowned Encyclopédie, a groundbreaking work of scholarship.
A Place of Discourse and Debate
The Café Procope wasn’t just a place to enjoy coffee and conversation. It was a platform for debate and discourse, where ideas were exchanged and discussed with vigor. The Conférence Molé, a group that helped aspiring speakers hone their public speaking skills, even held its meetings at the café.
The Café Procope’s Enduring Legacy
The Café Procope has faced challenges throughout its history. The original establishment closed its doors in 1872 and was leased to various owners. Yet, despite these changes, the café’s reputation and history endured. The name “Procope” was reintroduced in the 1920s, and the establishment continues to thrive as a restaurant, serving its guests delicious food and drink, while carrying the legacy of the café’s vibrant past.
The Café Procope remains a testament to Paris’s rich intellectual history. Its walls have witnessed the rise and fall of empires, the emergence of new ideas, and the exchange of countless conversations. Even today, its timeless charm and historical significance continue to captivate visitors, offering a glimpse into the heart and soul of Paris.