The 7th Arrondissement of Paris is a captivating blend of history and modernity. This district boasts iconic landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and the Champs de Mars, along with museums and gardens that attract travelers from around the world. But beyond the tourist attractions, the 7th Arrondissement holds a treasure trove for food lovers: a network of charming cafes, bistros, and restaurants that grace the streets of Rue Cler, Rue Saint-Dominique, and the vicinity of the Le Bon Marché department store. Join us on a virtual culinary adventure to discover the hidden gems and enduring traditions of Parisian dining in this beloved district.
Where Chefs Eat: Au Pied de Fouet
When acclaimed 3-star chef Alain Passard of L’Arpege was asked about his favorite Parisian eatery outside of his own restaurant, he surprised the French culinary world with his answer: Au Pied de Fouet. This unassuming bistro serves up classic French dishes at incredibly affordable prices, drawing in both locals and discerning palates.
The menu at Au Pied de Fouet is a celebration of simplicity, featuring comforting delights like lentil salad, rillette d’oie (country-style goose pâté), and perfectly grilled steaks. The bistro’s true charm lies in its atmosphere: a quintessential Parisian experience with a zinc bar, red-and-white checkered tablecloths, and a collection of knickknacks that have accumulated over the years, adding to the bistro’s unique character. Don’t miss the tempting desserts, including crême de marron (chestnut cream), fondant au chocolat, and the signature pruneaux au vin (prunes soaked in wine).
Despite its modest appearance, Au Pied de Fouet has become a popular destination, often attracting crowds thanks to the word-of-mouth praise it has received. So, be prepared for a wait, but trust us, the experience is worth it.
Family Tradition: Au Babylone
Au Babylone, a family-run establishment since 1951, embodies the spirit of enduring Parisian tradition. Victor, Liliane, and their daughters have been welcoming guests for generations, offering a daily changing menu featuring four to five main dishes and a selection of homemade desserts. The menu changes with the seasons, showcasing fresh, local ingredients.
From slow-simmered leg of lamb and veal blanquette to raspberry tarts, cherry clafoutis, and seasonal fruit crumbles, Au Babylone offers a delightful taste of French home cooking. The restaurant’s success can be attributed to its loyal clientele who return week after week, drawn to the unpretentious atmosphere and the quality of the food. A visit to Au Babylone is the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring the nearby department stores or the Le Grande Epicerie de Paris, the city’s famous gourmet food hall.
Belle Époque Elegance: Le Bistrot de Paris
Dating back to 1965, Le Bistrot de Paris resides in a building that whispers tales of the Belle Époque. The restaurant’s interior features intricate Art Nouveau details, including extensive woodwork, a grand staircase, and ornate mirrors. The atmosphere is refined and elegant, with impeccably set tables that evoke a sense of classic Parisian sophistication.
The menu at Le Bistrot de Paris is a culinary dream come true, featuring traditional French dishes that are as visually appealing as they are delicious. Indulge in escargots, salade d’endives (endive salad), tangy herring in a warm bath of buttery vinaigrette, and plump asparagus with mousseline sauce. The restaurant’s owner, Jean-Gabriel de Bueil, is known for his passion for preserving the spirit of old bistros. He has expanded his small restaurant group to include other iconic Parisian bistros such as Chez Georges, Chez René, Fred, and Savy, each with its own unique story and culinary heritage.
Le Bistrot de Paris is an ideal lunch spot after a morning spent exploring the nearby Musée Rodin, home to the captivating sculptures of the renowned artist.
A Hidden Gem: La Petite Chaise
La Petite Chaise, a classic Parisian cafe-bistro nestled near the Eiffel Tower, is a hidden gem that often goes unnoticed amidst the bustling city. With its charming terrace and menu featuring prices that defy logic, it’s a favorite among those in the know.
Be warned, La Petite Chaise is a popular spot, so arriving early or late during mealtimes is essential to secure a table. The restaurant’s salads are generous and flavorful, and the hot dishes are served with a variety of potato accompaniments, including crispy goose-fat-fried potatoes, golden yellow puréed potatoes, or classic French fries. Favorites include the crispy duck confit, roast chicken, a glorious French-style hamburger (served rare unless otherwise requested), and a selection of comforting desserts like moelleux au chocolat, crême brulée, and tarte tatin.
While La Petite Chaise’s popularity has led to some debate amongst online reviewers, one thing everyone agrees on is the deliciousness of the restaurant’s French onion soup. The restaurant is a true Parisian institution, having served guests since 1680, with notable patrons including George Sand, Colette, and François Mitterrand. The tiny dining room exudes charm, and the atmosphere is undeniably jovial.
Authentic Tradition: Fontaine de Mars
Fontaine de Mars is a Parisian bistro that gained notoriety after the Obamas chose it as their dining destination during a visit to Paris. The restaurant is a testament to traditional French dining, offering a glimpse into the culinary heritage of a generational bistro that has stood the test of time, opening its doors in 1908.
The menu at Fontaine de Mars is a classic Parisian affair, featuring dishes like steamed leeks with a tangy dressing and crunchy croutons, homemade duck confit, roasted duckling with caramel and endives, all served with generous sides like crispy steamed green beans, gratin dauphinois, and sautéed spinach. Don’t forget to save room for the tourtiere from the Southwest of France, paired with armagnac ice cream.
Sunday Delights: Le Petit Cler
Le Petit Cler, operated by the same family that owns Fontaine de Mars, is the perfect spot for those seeking a simple yet satisfying French meal. The small menu features classic dishes that are both comforting and delicious. The restaurant is also open on Sundays, offering a welcome respite for those seeking a Sunday brunch or lunch.
Be sure to check the daily specials, which feature flavorful dishes like tomates farcies a la provençale (stuffed tomatoes Provençal style) on Thursday and, appropriately, roast farm chicken with purée maison (homemade mashed potatoes) on Sunday. The tartines, made with Poilane bread, are also a highlight, with options like Saint-Marcellin (goat cheese) or sardines en boite (sardines in a tin) served with butter, olive oil, and lemon. The bistro’s decor is charmingly old-fashioned, transporting you back in time and reminding you of the authentic Parisian experience. There’s also a delightful outdoor terrasse for al fresco dining.
A Return to Favor: Au Bon Accueil
Au Bon Accueil, a long-time favorite among those familiar with the 7th Arrondissement, has recently undergone a resurgence in popularity. After a brief period of uncertainty, the restaurant has regained its former glory, offering a menu that showcases the best of classic French cuisine.
The highlight of the menu at Au Bon Accueil is the spectacular sole meunière, one of the best in Paris. The restaurant boasts a small, elegant dining room, located within the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, offering breathtaking views of the iconic landmark, especially at night. It’s a perfect spot to revisit an old favorite and rediscover the magic of Parisian dining.