Calum Franklin, the renowned pie master, has taken his culinary talents to Paris, opening a new restaurant called Public House in the 9th arrondissement. The concept? To introduce the French to the delights of British comfort food classics, like scotch eggs, sausage rolls, and, of course, his signature pies.
A British Invasion in Paris?
I envisioned a scene straight out of a movie: Parisians, clad in Louboutin heels, swooning over steak and ale pies, their gastronomic perspectives forever altered. But as soon as I stepped into Public House, my dreams of culinary conquest crumbled. The reality was far from the charming vision I’d painted in my mind.
A Visual Feast Gone Wrong
The restaurant’s interior, while visually appealing in online photos, felt jarring in person. Candy-colored tiles, ornate carpentry, and polished brasswork clashed in a way that felt strangely out of place. The overall atmosphere felt more like a themed diner than a sophisticated Parisian eatery.
From Bread Basket to Bitter Disappointment
Even the bread basket, a quintessential symbol of French hospitality, was a let-down. The sourdough, seemingly sliced hours before, was dry and stale, a stark contrast to the fresh, crusty bread I’d come to expect in Paris.
A Culinary Journey Gone Awry
The food was equally disappointing. Pig’s head croquettes, scotch eggs, and whitebait arrived lukewarm, suggesting they’d been prepped in advance. The scotch egg, a dish synonymous with British cuisine, was particularly disheartening. The casing, made with black pudding, was cool and raw, the yolk a watery, jellied mess. It was clear that something had gone terribly wrong.
The Pie That Wasn’t
The lobster pie, the pièce de résistance, was the final nail in the coffin. The golden crust, while visually appealing, hid a disappointing reality. Underneath lay raw fennel, hard potatoes, and a meager amount of lobster. It was an uninspired combination, both poorly conceived and poorly executed.
A Missed Opportunity
It was a sad and ultimately unfulfilling experience. While Franklin’s absence on this particular night may have contributed to some of the shortcomings, it doesn’t excuse the fundamental lack of quality and care. Public House has the potential to be a gem in the Parisian culinary landscape, but in its current state, it’s a far cry from the ambitious vision it promised.
Other News in the Restaurant World
Si King, one half of the Hairy Bikers, is leading a memorial motorcycle ride for his late partner, Dave Myers, on June 8th. The ride will start in London and end in Myers’ hometown of Barrow-in-Furness, with stops along the way for non-bikers to participate.
Chef Anthony Demetre has opened a more casual restaurant, Bistrot at Wild Honey, to complement his Michelin-starred Wild Honey at the Sofitel Hotel in St. James’s. The new bistro serves classic French dishes, including fish soup, pâté en croûte, and steak frites.
Scalping of restaurant reservations is on the rise, with reports of tables at coveted restaurants being resold for exorbitant prices. This trend, already seen in New York and San Francisco, has now reached London.
