Paris’ Left Bank is a place of whispers and dreams, a symphony of cobblestone streets, charming bridges, and literary legends. The very names – Latin Quarter, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Montparnasse – paint a picture of a Parisian experience unlike any other. Let’s delve into this enchanting realm and uncover ten timeless bistros and restaurants that embody the Left Bank’s irresistible allure.
A Trip Back in Time: Classic Bistros
Chez Marcel: A Lyon-Inspired Gem
Tucked away on a narrow street near Montparnasse, Chez Marcel is a quintessential Parisian bistro, a haven for those seeking authentic flavors and a taste of old Paris. This cozy space, adorned with antique photographs and gleaming copper pots, has been serving Lyon’s signature fare since 1919. Indulge in andouillette, saucisson de Lyon, escargots, coq au vin, and oeuf mayonnaise, relishing the intimacy of a room where tables are so close you might brush shoulders with your neighbor. Reservations are a must for this popular destination.
Le Vieux Paris: A Journey Through Time
Step into Le Vieux Paris, a bistro that transports you to a bygone era. Located between Boulevard Saint-Germain and the Seine, this traditional establishment boasts a dining room that dates back to 1901. Admire the historical murals on the walls and the charming revolving door, a testament to the bistro’s rich past. While the menu may not be considered fine dining, it offers hearty French classics like confit de canard, boeuf bourguignon, and cuisses de grenouilles persillade (frog legs with parsley). Expect swift service, seasoned waiters jotting down orders on paper tablecloths, and a vibrant atmosphere that reflects the true spirit of Paris.
Le Reminet: A Candlelit Escape
Le Reminet is a Parisian dream, a haven of velvet banquettes, glistening chandeliers, and golden mirrors. Though some reviews may paint a less-than-glowing picture, remember that even the most charming bistros can have an off night. This petit bistro, nestled in the bustling Latin Quarter, draws in both locals and tourists alike. Savor the delights of foie gras, fresh oysters, and the signature dish of slow-simmered beef cheeks served over creamy, butter-colored mashed potatoes. Reservations are recommended for this delightful experience.
Literary Legends and Parisian Glamour
Le Select: Where Hemingway and Fitzgerald Roamed
Le Select is a literary legend, its walls echoing with the whispers of literary giants like Hemingway and Fitzgerald, who frequented the cafe during the Jazz Age. Stepping into Le Select is like stepping back in time. Its original 1920s moldings, Lalique lighting fixtures, and wrought-iron details transport you to a bygone era. Indulge in bistro classics like steak tartare, grilled onglet de boeuf (hangar steak), bone marrow, escargots, and a delectable croque monsieur made with Poilane bread.
Bouillon Racine: A Parisian Dream Restored
Bouillon Racine is an architectural masterpiece, an Art Nouveau gem that epitomizes Parisian elegance. Opened in 1906 by the Chartier family, this bistro remained a family-run establishment until 1926. After a period of decline, the University of Paris acquired it in 1962 and transformed it into a staff cafeteria. However, three decades later, Bouillon Racine was lovingly restored to its former glory.
This enchanting bistro welcomes you with its curves, swirls, period mirrors, and wrought-iron furniture, offering a glimpse into the city’s rich artistic heritage. Treat yourself to traditional Parisian fare like frisée salad with smoked bacon, poulet fermier rôti frites (roasted chicken with fries), pavé de rumsteack (thick cut steaks), and the classic baba au rhum chantilly. The building’s exterior and Art Nouveau interior have been designated as historical monuments, a testament to its timeless appeal.
Legendary Brasseries and Secret Gems
Brasserie Lipp: A Hemingway Haunt
Brasserie Lipp is a legendary brasserie, a favorite haunt of Hemingway himself. Located in the heart of the city, this historic brasserie may not boast fine dining or elegant surroundings, but it possesses an undeniable charm. Its longevity, dating back to 1880, speaks to its enduring appeal.
The bustling atmosphere, filled with a mix of locals and travelers, adds to the brasserie’s unique ambiance. Servers weave between tables, their movements as rhythmic as a phonograph needle. The menu features Parisian classics like caviar, herring, choucroute Lipp (Alsatian sauerkraut with sausages), pied de porc farci grillé (stuffed pig’s trotters), all accompanied by crisp white wine, ruby red wines, and ice-cold beer. A reservation is highly recommended for this popular destination.
La Rôtisserie d’Argent: A Secret Gem
La Rôtisserie d’Argent is a secret gem, a hidden treasure tucked away across the street from the Michelin-starred Tour d’Argent. Managed by the same family, La Rôtisserie d’Argent offers a more relaxed atmosphere and a menu designed to save you euros.
This charming bistro boasts small tables covered with red and white checkered tablecloths and enchanting views of the Seine at Pont de la Tournelle. The star of the show is the rotisserie, a mesmerizing spectacle of slowly turning meats and poultry. Indulge in delicious dishes like roast duck and confit de canard, relishing the authentic flavors of Parisian cuisine. This bistro offers a lively mix of locals and travelers, all united by a love for simple, hearty French food.
Culinary Magic and Artistic Legacy
Le Christine: Culinary Magic in the Latin Quarter
Le Christine is a hidden gem in the Latin Quarter, nestled between Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain-des-Prés, a place where culinary magic takes place. In a charming space with stone walls, wooden beams, and comfortable banquettes, Le Christine offers a memorable dining experience.
While you can order à la carte, consider opting for the service en quatre plats, a four-course tasting menu that showcases the chef’s culinary artistry. Start with asperges, ail des ours, parmesan (a poached egg with asparagus, wild garlic, and parmesan), and continue your journey with house-made tagliatelle with morel mushrooms, white asparagus, and hazelnuts. The desserts, like tarte framboises pistaches (raspberry and pistachio tart) and poire rôtie, crème de marron, sorbet poire et romarin (roasted pear, chestnut cream with pear and rosemary sorbet), are sure to delight your taste buds. The restaurant’s lovely 17th-century courtyard adds to the ambiance.
La Closerie des Lilas: A Literary Haven
La Closerie des Lilas is a literary haven, a place steeped in the history of Hemingway and countless other artistic legends. Located in Montparnasse, this legendary cafe became a favorite haunt of Hemingway after he moved to the area in 1924.
During warmer months, linger on the terrace, shaded by bamboo and trees, escaping the bustling boulevard. Inside, choose between the restaurant side, offering fine dining, or the brasserie side, for a more relaxed experience. Whatever your choice, La Closerie des Lilas offers a connection to the past, conjuring up memories of Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Miller, Modigliani, Breton, Picasso, Sartre, Beckett, Man Ray, Ezra Pound, and even Oscar Wilde.
Beyond its artistic legacy, La Closerie des Lilas serves up a delectable menu, from fresh oysters and bubbly hot escargots to crepes Suzette made tableside and Hemingway-style steak with crispy frites. The piano bar, where you can enjoy the music of Edith Piaf, adds to the cafe’s timeless charm.
