Paris’s iconic skyline is, in large part, thanks to the zinc roofs adorning most of its buildings. Ever wished you could bring a piece of that Parisian charm home with you? Well, now you can!
Learn the Craft of Parisian Roofing
In the heart of the capital, a unique workshop offers a chance to delve into the world of Parisian roofing. Les Toits Parisiens, situated in the Quartier Saint-Paul, is a fascinating blend of a boutique showcasing zinc art pieces and an atelier where you can learn to transform old Paris roof slates into your own artistic creations.
Since 2002, the workshop has welcomed individuals eager to learn the traditional craft. Led by Frédéric Cordier, an experienced Parisian roofer, the 90-minute workshops cost €60. During our visit, a couple from the Somme department were diligently shaping authentic Paris roof tiles into coasters to take home, their curiosity sparked by a visit to a slate mine.
A Legacy of Zinc: From Baron Haussmann to Modern Paris
The signature zinc rooftops of Paris have a fascinating history. Under the visionary leadership of Baron Haussmann in the 19th century, zinc became the material of choice for Parisian roofs. Its affordability, malleability, weather resistance, and ease of installation made it ideal.
Zinc’s lightweight nature also allowed for the creation of new attic living spaces, the “chambre de bonne” studios found throughout Paris. These studios played a crucial role in housing the city’s burgeoning population.
The Enduring Craft of Parisian Roofing
Today, welded zinc roofs dominate Parisian architecture, accounting for approximately 80% of all rooftops. While they require complete replacement every 60 to 70 years, minor repairs are also frequent, ensuring the continued demand for skilled roofers.
A typical roof restoration is a meticulous process that can take up to six months. The roofers, often working high above the city, meticulously cut and bend the zinc sheets on-site, utilizing traditional techniques passed down through generations.
The craft of the Parisian zingueurs is deeply rooted in history and tradition. In 2017, it was recognized as an intangible cultural heritage in France and is currently on the shortlist for inclusion in UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritages in 2024.
The Passion of a Parisian Zingueur
Frédéric Cordier embodies the dedication and artistry of the Parisian roofing tradition. He has been a roofer for over 35 years, working fearlessly at heights. As a teenager, he would often walk along the ridge of his own roof in the 18th arrondissement, showcasing an early passion for heights.
A member of the Compagnons du Devoir, a guild for craftsmen and artisans with roots tracing back to the Middle Ages, Mr. Cordier’s journey has involved extensive travel and apprenticeships with master craftsmen. He found his true calling in framework, showcasing a mastery of intricate zinc work beyond simply laying panels.
His craft demands more than mere technical skill; it requires artistry. Roofers often incorporate zinc figures or ornaments to enhance the beauty of a rooftop. Mr. Cordier’s personal touch is a delicate ivy leaf, adding a touch of nature to his work.
A Brotherhood of Roofers
Despite the perception of roofers as solitary figures, Mr. Cordier insists that they form a close-knit community. “This is our home here. We do whatever we want,” he says, emphasizing their sense of belonging and camaraderie. Even their communication involves unique codes, using whistles to signal each other or suggest a drink.
While Mr. Cordier learned his craft through on-the-job experience, numerous training programs exist in France for aspiring roofers. These include the Lycée Maximilien-Perret in Paris and the centre de formation d’apprentis (CFA) offered by institutions like Afpa and Greta.
However, Mr. Cordier stresses that formal education alone cannot replace the importance of keen observation and learning through experience. He eloquently states, “These techniques are not ‘learned’ but stolen.” He emphasizes the importance of observing and absorbing the knowledge of experienced roofers, a tradition that has shaped the craft for centuries.
The legacy of Parisian zinc roofs is a testament to the enduring skills of generations of roofers and the rich tapestry of craftsmanship that defines the city’s unique charm. From the iconic skyline to the intricate details adorning each rooftop, the work of the zingueurs is an integral part of Paris’s architectural heritage and a source of inspiration for aspiring artisans and those seeking to connect with the city’s cultural heart.
