A week before the Urban Sketchers Symposium began, I was in Porto, ready to soak up the city’s magic before the crowds arrived. This pre-symposium time is precious to me, allowing me to prepare for my workshop and truly immerse myself in the local culture. I love the peacefulness of exploring a city before it’s overrun with fellow sketchers!
Day 1: A Rainy Welcome
After a hearty breakfast, I ventured out from my hotel and was greeted by the iconic view of the Douro River and the Dom Luis I Bridge. It was a breathtaking sight! The rain, however, dampened my initial urge to sketch.
Instead, I made the steep climb to my workshop location, the Igreja dos Clerigos. Porto’s hills were no joke, providing an early workout for the upcoming symposium! With the rain still pouring, I took refuge inside the church, sketching the richly decorated interior. It wasn’t the first Porto scene I envisioned, but it was a great way to get my sketching hand warmed up.
I then stumbled upon a charming pastry shop and decided to do a quick warm-up sketch of its Baroque facade. It was a delightful find! The intricate details and the complex design were a feast for my eyes. However, the downpour made it impossible to do any serious workshop preparation, so I wandered the streets, absorbing the vibrant atmosphere.
Day 2: Art, Architecture, and Inspiration
While walking, I was drawn to the unique shapes and colors of Porto. The city, with its grey granite buildings and winding streets, was much different from my memories of Lisbon, its white limestone and reflected light. The steep streets created stunning vistas, and the numerous large windows and balconies added a touch of elegance. It was a captivating place, but not the easiest to sketch, especially for someone who prefers a loose and free style.
The rain finally stopped, and I settled into a cafe overlooking the Praca da Riberia to sketch some typical Porto buildings. However, my leisurely approach led to a sense of boredom, so I decided to keep it a black and white ink sketch.
I needed a splash of color! I chose to sketch some of the buildings overlooking the Douro River, using both line and watercolor. The day concluded with a delightful dinner where I struck up conversations with the friendly staff and the couple at the next table. It’s amazing how sketching can bring people together!
During dinner, I decided to give my trusty Green Sailor Fude pen another chance. It hadn’t been working well for months, but after a good clean before this trip, it seemed to be back to its former glory! I was ecstatic to use it again, as its expressive lines made it easier to capture the rich details of Porto’s architecture.
Day 3: Exploring with Friends and Finding My Groove
The sun was shining brightly, and I was back at the Clerigos to continue preparing for my workshop, “It’s all in the details.” I spent some time focusing on the intricate details of the facade, a perfect theme for my workshop!
Two local sketchers, Humberto Marum and Hugo Costa, joined me, making this a truly memorable sketching session. We started by sketching the street scene next to the Clerigos, and then ventured to a less touristy area, where I tackled a large scene at the corner of Praca de Carlos Alberto. Hugo, a fan of grand vistas, and I enjoyed comparing our different interpretations of the same scene.
Our sketching adventure continued with another Baroque facade, the Igreja do Carmo. I used a new grey ink, Tina, from the art store I had discovered earlier, adding black fude lines to complete the sketch. Hugo, however, surpassed my ambitions with his usual expansive sketch that spanned multiple pages. I was in a sketching frenzy, and before long, I was capturing a building across the street.
I ended the day with a wonderful dinner with Marum and his family, including his adorable daughter who signed my sketchbook! This was actually my birthday, and I couldn’t have asked for a better way to spend it. I’m so grateful to these incredible guys for making it a truly unforgettable day.
Day 4: Solo Sketches and Serendipitous Encounters
After a solitary morning, I climbed the steep hill to the main cathedral. While the view wasn’t particularly inspiring, I considered it a warm-up and indulged in some creative distortions. I used my new grey inks, Lilly and Tina, for this sketch.
There were incredible views from this area, so I had to capture one of them! After a well-deserved coffee and pastel de nata, I met up with Hugo again, and together, we sketched the view looking down to the river and the Symposium venue, the grand customs building Alfandega.
My coffee break led to a lovely encounter with Anne Rose from the Netherlands, proof that the city was buzzing with urban sketchers. We had a delightful lunch and spent the rest of the day sketching together. Anne Rose’s quick sketching style complemented mine perfectly.
We captured the iconic steep foreshortened buildings with balconies, a signature view of Porto, before moving on to sketch an abandoned building with its fascinating textures.
We joined Paul Wang for a walk, searching for a view worth sketching, but the perfect spot eluded us. Instead, we settled for a narrow lane winding up and down, another quintessential Porto scene.
I joined Paul at the riverside for a quick paint-only sketch before heading to dinner with a group from Hong Kong and Sydney. Another amazing day filled with sketching and camaraderie! A huge thanks to Anne Rose for making it such a wonderful experience.
And so ended my first three days in Porto, a quiet prelude to the bustling days to come! The following days were full of anticipation and excitement as more urban sketchers arrived. But for now, I’m savoring the peacefulness of my pre-symposium exploration. Stay tuned for more stories from the heart of Porto!
