Nestled in the heart of West Berlin’s Kantstrasse, the Paris Bar stands as a timeless monument to the city’s vibrant nightlife and artistic spirit. This classic French brasserie has become an institution, drawing inspiration from its Parisian roots while embracing the bold energy of Berlin. Its walls are adorned with masterpieces by renowned contemporary artists, serving as a testament to the city’s creative dynamism.
The Paris Bar has witnessed a captivating tapestry of legendary figures who have graced its hallowed halls. David Bowie and Iggy Pop, icons of rock and roll, frequented the bar, seeking solace and inspiration amidst its artistic ambiance. Rainer Werner Fassbinder, the acclaimed German filmmaker, and his energetic entourage made the Paris Bar their regular haunt, infusing the space with a palpable sense of creative energy. Martin Kippenberger, the celebrated artist, even bartered his artworks for meals, further solidifying the bar’s status as a haven for artistic expression.
A Viennese Soul Finds Home in Berlin
Michel Würthle, the bar’s current owner, embarked on a journey that led him from the charming streets of Vienna to the vibrant energy of Berlin. His initial visit was a fleeting one, a trip to see a mathematician friend. Yet, fate had other plans, and he found himself captivated by the city’s unique allure.
“I love Paris,” he shares, “but it was expensive, and life there felt more challenging than in Berlin. The city has a certain rigidity, a sense of established society.” Berlin, on the other hand, presented a different landscape, a city in flux, where a new identity was being forged.
The 1970s, in particular, saw a significant shift in Berlin’s social fabric. The “bourgeoisie,” fearful of a potential Russian invasion, fled the city, leaving behind a space ripe for experimentation and renewal. Michel, having decided to leave Paris, found himself drawn to this dynamic energy. Vienna, he felt, had become too confined, too small to accommodate his aspirations.
Finding Inspiration in the Unexpected
Berlin’s artistic scene, in the 1970s, was characterized by an exciting blend of creativity and a certain sense of “scrappiness.” Michel, drawn to this unconventional spirit, observed the city’s evolving culinary landscape.
“The food back then,” he recounts, “was pretty much limited to currywurst and pea soup, with the exception of Turkish cuisine.” Recognizing a void in the city’s culinary scene, he and Oswald Wiener, a renowned Austrian writer and artist, joined forces to open a small restaurant called “Exil.”
This venture proved to be a turning point in Michel’s life. “For the first time,” he reveals, “I truly enjoyed working. It was a hustle, but we had enough to eat and drink. Eight fantastic years passed by quickly before we decided to sell and I took over the Paris Bar in 1979.”
From Humble Beginnings to Artistic Haven
The Paris Bar, at that time, was far from the renowned artistic hub it is today. It was a simple establishment, tucked away on Kantstrasse, a somewhat anonymous street between Savignyplatz and Bahnhof Zoo. However, the bar had a history, dating back to 1962.
“The original French owner,” Michel explains, “unfortunately succumbed to cirrhosis of the liver, a fate shared by many French restaurateurs of that era. His nephew took over, but he also met the same tragic end.”
The bar’s interior, at the time, was a curious mix of fishnets, artificial crabs, and miniature Eiffel Towers. Michel, with a vision to transform the space, decided to replace this kitsch decor with a collection of artwork.
Art as a Catalyst for Connection
The first artwork to grace the Paris Bar’s walls was a painting by Markus Lüpertz, a close friend of Michel’s. This marked the beginning of a transformative journey, as the bar gradually became a showcase for emerging and established artists.
“The second piece was by Ina Barfuss,” Michel continues, “and then came Dieter Roth, whom I knew through Joseph Beuys.”
The art scene in Berlin, at that time, was less commercially driven than it is today. The Paris Bar, with its burgeoning reputation, offered a valuable platform for artists to gain exposure and connect with a broader audience.
A Friendship Forged in Art and Excess
One of the most influential figures in the Paris Bar’s artistic journey was Martin Kippenberger, a rebellious artist whose work resonated with Michel’s unconventional spirit.
Their connection was immediate, albeit somewhat unconventional. “From the moment we met,” Michel recalls, “it was like two stray dogs, either sniffing each other out or getting into a fight. We ended up becoming good friends.”
Kippenberger’s work, in the late 1970s, struggled to find recognition. Michel, recognizing the artist’s raw talent, proposed a unique exchange: “I told him he could eat and drink here for the rest of his life, in exchange for a few pieces of art.”
This unconventional arrangement became a defining moment in the Paris Bar’s history, solidifying its reputation as a haven for artistic expression and fostering a spirit of collaboration and mutual respect.
Navigating Art, Excess, and Reputation
Michel’s journey with the Paris Bar has been a testament to the power of intuition and a willingness to embrace the unexpected.
“I’d like to say it’s intelligence,” he reflects, “but it’s really luck that pays off. These situations have saved me from difficult circumstances more than once.”
The Paris Bar’s story is punctuated by moments of both triumph and adversity. The sale of a Kippenberger painting to settle a debt, for example, is a reminder of the sometimes precarious nature of life, but also of the value of art as a form of resilience.
The bar’s artistic landscape continues to evolve. Daniel Richter, a contemporary artist known for his captivating and often unsettling work, replaced a Kippenberger painting, a testament to the ongoing dialogue between past and present.
A Legacy of Excess and Artistic Expression
The Paris Bar’s allure, however, extends beyond its artistic treasures. It’s a place where conversations flow freely, where laughter echoes late into the night, and where the boundaries of conventionality are blurred.
“It’s not just about the alcohol,” Michel emphasizes, “it’s about the excess, the wild nights, and the unique atmosphere that we have created.”
The Paris Bar has witnessed its share of unconventional characters and spirited gatherings. Rainer Werner Fassbinder and his entourage, with their passionate energy, embodied this spirit of excess.
Michel, a seemingly shy individual, finds his voice in the bar’s vibrant atmosphere. “For a shy man,” he admits, “I am a very social person. I was always fascinated by what they were doing in the bathrooms! It wasn’t possible that they were going to have sex every half an hour. Nobody is that potent!”
These “wild nights,” as Michel fondly recalls, are a testament to the bar’s enduring spirit. The Paris Bar, in its vibrant energy, has become a haven for artists, intellectuals, and anyone seeking a taste of Berlin’s unique and vibrant energy.
