Paris, a city synonymous with romance and art, consistently ranks among the world’s most visited destinations. Its picturesque, walkable neighborhoods, shaped by centuries of cultural and historical events, leave tourists with a plethora of options to explore. While iconic landmarks like Notre-Dame and the Eiffel Tower need no introduction, this guide delves into the lesser-known corners of the popular Montmartre hilltop neighborhood, revealing hidden gems waiting to be discovered.
A Parisian Escape: La Verrière and the Opulent Palais Garnier
Step into the tranquility of La Verrière, a light-filled cafe with plush armchairs and a breathtaking glass roof nestled within the 19th-century InterContinental Paris le Grand Hotel in the 9th arrondissement. The cafe’s ambiance is enhanced by the soothing mint green hues that adorn the armchairs, matching the glass roof and surrounding greenery. Although the prices are on the higher end, the “gourmand” tea or coffee option, costing 16 euros (around $17.50), comes with three delightful pastries, offering a sweet treat to complement your Parisian experience.
Just a short stroll from the hotel, take a moment to admire the intricate sculptures that adorn the Palais Garnier, Paris’s most opulent opera house, inaugurated in 1875. Gaze upwards to the top of the building and notice the imposing sculpture of Apollo, holding his lyre for all to see, a testament to the grandeur of this architectural masterpiece.
Hidden Treasures: Uncovering Smaller Museums and Montmartre Cemetery
Paris is home to well over 100 museums, but venturing beyond the throngs of tourists at the Louvre can lead to unexpected rewards. The Gustave Moreau Museum, a house-museum south of Montmartre, is a hidden gem waiting to be unearthed. This museum, conceived by the 19th-century painter Gustave Moreau, an early pioneer of Symbolism known for his visionary approach to mythological subjects, offers a unique perspective on the artist’s world.
Stepping into the museum is like stepping into Moreau’s personal world. The first-floor rooms, once his apartment, are a vibrant testament to his artistic spirit, covered from floor to ceiling with his art collection and treasured personal belongings. But the true highlight is the large, magnificent studio on the second and third floors, connected by a winding wrought-iron staircase. Here, visitors can witness Moreau’s enigmatic depictions of the Jewish princess Salomé and several unfinished masterpieces, like “The Three Magi,” showcasing the raw power of his artistic vision.
Another small but captivating collection nearby is the Musée de la Vie Romantique, offering a glimpse into the artistic salons of Paris’s Romantic era. This museum, free to enter (except for exhibitions), provides a window into the past, showcasing the rich cultural heritage of this period.
Escape the bustling city and seek refuge in the peaceful Montmartre Cemetery, a hidden oasis of calm located under a viaduct. This cemetery, established in the early 19th century, is the final resting place of renowned French painters, authors, and performers. Despite its status as a burial ground for notable figures, the cemetery possesses a sense of quiet anarchy, with less-famous tombstones that are just as captivating.
A Unique Drinking Experience: Le Bar à Bulles and Montmartre’s Hidden Cabaret
While visitors flock to Montmartre for its artistic legacy and charming sights, few are aware of the hidden bar tucked behind the red windmill of the famous Moulin Rouge. Le Bar à Bulles, established in 2015 with a separate entrance via a small pedestrian street to the left of the Moulin Rouge, offers a refreshing change from the area’s tourist traps.
Indulge in the unique flavors of Anaë gin, produced in southwestern France, with tonic (€11.50), and savor a delightful cheese plate (€18) on the leafy rooftop or in the colorful indoor space. The cafe’s eclectic decor, featuring mismatched furniture and lampshades dangling from the ceiling, adds to its quirky charm. On certain evenings, live concerts and events enhance the warm and lively atmosphere, making Le Bar à Bulles a unique and memorable experience.
Few visitors are aware of Madame Arthur, a hidden Montmartre cabaret with a rich history dating back to 1946, recently reopened in 2015. This cabaret, renowned for its resident troupe of singers and musicians who perform live nightly, has played a significant role in the recent renaissance of drag in France.
While the 8 p.m. main-stage show is captivating, for a more intimate experience, opt for the 11 p.m. “recital,” where performers showcase their talents with a diverse repertoire, ranging from opera to French translations of American pop (€15 at the door only, arrive early). The small space makes for a close-up view of the performers, including renowned stars like the witty Charly Voodoo, adding to the unique charm of the performance. This summer, Madame Arthur introduces a new 10 p.m. English-language show (€20, Thursday to Saturday, on the main stage), making it accessible to a wider audience.
Beyond Montmartre: Culinary Delights and Artistic Expression in La Villette
Venture beyond Montmartre and discover the artistic and culinary delights of La Villette, a sprawling park on the northern edge of Paris. This 136-acre expanse, with its gardens, canals, and cultural spaces, has seen a surge in popularity in recent years as the area has undergone gentrification and new venues have brought more events.
La Villette is dotted with distinctive, sharply drawn red structures designed by the deconstructivist architect Bernard Tschumi in the 1980s. The park is also home to the futuristic silver architecture of the Paris Philharmonic, inaugurated in 2015. Step inside this architectural marvel and be captivated by the innovative design and state-of-the-art facilities.
La Villette is a vibrant hub of cultural expression. Explore the large dance floor installed under the arches of the Grande Halle, where hip-hop dancers frequently train and relish an audience. Unwind with your family at the funky thematic playgrounds, including the Garden of Childhood Fears, a mysterious forest with strange sounds, and the Garden of the Dragon, whose tongue serves as a thrilling slide.
During the summer months, cool off in the designated outdoor swimming space in the nearby Bassin de la Villette. For a rainy-day escape, the Cité des Sciences (€13 for adults) offers engaging and family-friendly science exhibits.
At the intersection of the Ourcq and St.-Denis canals, you’ll encounter Ventrus, a portable restaurant that has found its home at La Villette. This restaurant features rotating guest chefs every few weeks or months, offering short, seasonal menus (€40 to €50 for an a la carte, three-course lunch).
Ventrus is committed to sustainability, with programs in place to recycle its waste and water, making it an eco-conscious dining choice. The restaurant’s terrace provides a perfect vantage point to people-watch by the water, making it a prime spot for enjoying a leisurely lunch.
For a more casual dining experience, stroll east along the Ourcq canal to Jardin 21, a transformed vacant lot that now serves as a community and cultural space. This vibrant space boasts a large vegetable garden that visitors are welcome to explore. Sip on a craft beer and mingle with locals as you unwind on a lazy Sunday, embracing the laid-back atmosphere of this unique space.
