Berlin’s culinary scene is experiencing a fiery resurgence. Open-fire cooking, once a niche practice, has become a hot trend in the city, captivating both chefs and diners alike. While the number of restaurants embracing this technique is still relatively small, their presence is undeniable, raising the bar for quality dining experiences.
A Connection to Nature
One such restaurant is Kramer, a newcomer to the Neukölln district. For chef and owner Fabian Kramer, open-fire cooking is more than just a culinary technique; it’s a deep connection to nature.
“In a modern kitchen, you’re working with electricity, using stainless steel ovens and induction stoves,” Kramer explains. “But with fire, you feel a direct connection to the food, its origins, and the earth itself.”
Kramer’s approach to open-fire cooking isn’t without its challenges. “Chefs who come here from high-end kitchens need to adapt to a different kind of cooking,” he says. “You can’t always be precise, and that’s okay. Fire creates a raw, primal cooking experience that embraces imperfections.”
Beyond the Flames
While the allure of open-fire cooking is undeniable, implementing it in a restaurant setting isn’t always straightforward. Kramer’s restaurant, for example, required a custom ventilation system to handle the heat and smoke. However, this investment has paid off in unexpected ways. The system also generates heat and hot water, making the restaurant eco-friendly and contributing to the building’s sustainability.
Berlin’s Fiery Spots
But Kramer isn’t the only restaurant setting Berlin ablaze. Here are a few other spots that are burning bright:
Ember: Rooftop Dining with a View
Led by chef Tobias Beck, Ember is a pop-up restaurant that changes locations every few months. Currently, you can find them on a rooftop in Kreuzberg, offering a casual dining experience with breathtaking views. Their four-course menu showcases seasonal produce cooked over a wood fire, creating an unforgettable culinary journey.
Ernst: Japanese Elegance with a Fire-Kissed Touch
While not exclusively an open-fire restaurant, Ernst incorporates this technique into its exquisite tasting menu, blending Japanese cooking methods with local ingredients. Chef-owner Dylan Watson-Brawn uses a Konro-style grill to add a subtle smoky touch to his dishes, creating a unique balance of flavors.
Stoke: Yakitori Delights Under the Stars
Another rooftop destination, Stoke, offers a yakitori experience like no other. Their pop-up, located on the roof of Atelier in Kreuzberg, features Japanese grilled skewers cooked over an open flame. Enjoy a delectable sunset meal while taking in the panoramic city views.
Barra: A Smoldering Gem in Schillerkiez
While Barra isn’t strictly an open-fire restaurant, chef Daniel Remers embraces the power of flames to char and sear a variety of meats and vegetables. The maillard reaction, a key chemical process that occurs when food is heated, adds a smoky depth of flavor to their dishes.
Berlin’s Embracing the Flame
The open-fire cooking movement in Berlin is not just a trend, it’s a testament to the city’s culinary creativity. Chefs are pushing boundaries and experimenting with new techniques, all while highlighting the connection between food, fire, and nature. As more restaurants embrace this primal style of cooking, Berlin’s food scene is set to continue its fiery evolution.
