Montmartre, perched atop a hill in Paris, offers a glimpse into a bygone era. Its cobblestone streets wind and twist, unveiling hidden treasures around every corner: a street musician serenading passersby, a dancer captivating with their movements, or an artist capturing the essence of the neighborhood on canvas. This is the heart of Bohemian Paris, where starving artists of the Belle Époque, such as Toulouse-Lautrec, Paul Verlaine, and even Van Gogh, once sought refuge. They frequented the cheap cafés of this vibrant quarter, hoping to find inspiration and a taste of life amidst the creative energy.
Culinary Delights: Where Parisian Flavors Meet Quirky Charm
While tourism has embraced Montmartre, it hasn’t entirely eclipsed its quirky charm. Unique restaurants and delightful boutiques still flourish, waiting to be discovered. Let’s embark on a culinary journey, starting with a truly unforgettable dining experience:
Le Refuge des Fondus: A Fondue Feast with a Side of Parisian Sass
Prepare for a culinary adventure at Le Refuge des Fondus, a restaurant unlike any other. Its eccentric exterior blends seamlessly with the quirky street it calls home. Inside, you’ll find a tiny space, accommodating only two long tables, one on each wall. The sassy owner, a master of witty banter, will guide you over the table to your seat. Don’t be intimidated by his playful personality – he thrives on bringing joy to his guests. You’ll be dining elbow-to-elbow with fellow travelers and Parisians, creating a communal dining experience.
The star of the show is, of course, the fondue: a symphony of melted cheese or a hearty meat broth, accompanied by a prelude of olives, cheeses, and charcuterie. For a refreshing accompaniment, choose between red or white wine, served in adorable baby bottles with rubber tops. This ingenious Parisian loophole allows them to bypass the city’s alcohol tax imposed on traditional wine glasses. The delicious fondue, bottomless bread, and flowing wine (without a drop spilled thanks to the baby bottles) guarantee a memorable and boisterous evening. Come hungry and ready for a lively experience!
La Butte: Where Salad Meets Mountains of Potatoes
If you crave the perfect blend of fried, crispy garlic potatoes and a refreshing salad, La Butte is your haven. Their showstopping dish features “giant salads,” generously piled high with divine spuds. While the potatoes may dominate the view, don’t be fooled – the lettuce is there, along with other delicious additions, like warm goat cheese, bacon, and a sprinkle of vegetables. This remarkable value for money is a must-try, but remember to bring cash, as they don’t accept credit cards.
La Maison Rose: A Vegetarian Oasis in a Meat-Loving City
Vegetarian options may be limited in France, the land of rich creams and meats. But La Maison Rose, nestled east of the Abbesses metro stop, is a vibrant oasis for vegetarian diners. The colorful exterior and welcoming interior, reminiscent of a cozy living room, instantly put you at ease. The owner, often acting as both waitress and cook, will welcome you like a dear friend.
The vegetarian food is prepared fresh at a station right before your eyes, allowing you to witness and savor the aromas of every dish. Simple and hearty lentils, grains, vegetables, and hummus are the highlights, offering a welcome respite from the typical French cuisine.
Parisian Bread Heaven: A Taste of Artisan Excellence
No guide to Montmartre is complete without a visit to its renowned bakeries. While Paris is known for its exceptional baguettes, Montmartre has earned the title of “best baguette” champion since 2008. Here, you’ll find the most exquisite carbohydrate swords, meticulously crafted by artisan bakers.
Discover Parisian Bread Nirvana:
- Coquelicot des Abbesses: This bakery offers a double-level dining room perfect for an in-house brunch experience.
- Boulangerie Alexine: Ranked among the top ten Parisian baguettes in both 2007 and 2008, this bakery is a must-visit for bread enthusiasts.
With your appetite satisfied, let’s delve into the shopping scene that Montmartre has to offer.
Shopping Spree: From Beauty Treasures to Vintage Delights
Oh My Cream!: A Beauty Haven for Cult Favorites
For those seeking hard-to-find beauty products, Oh My Cream! is a treasure trove. This baby-pink boutique boasts a curated selection of small, specialty beauty brands, including Sunday Riley, Antipodes, Pai, and Tata Harper. Discover unique products formulated with all-natural and revolutionary ingredients, providing potent solutions for all skin types.
Atelier Montmartre: Where Ceramics Meet Modern Art
This ceramic shop stands out with its distinctive style: modernist shapes and motifs combined with a slightly rough texture. Nestled in the slope of rue des Saules, it offers a variety of ceramic cups, bowls, plates, pots, and hanging ornaments in a spectrum of vibrant colors. These unique pieces make perfect gifts for loved ones back home.
Place des Abbesses: A Vintage Paradise
Wake up early on a Sunday, grab breakfast or a quick coffee and croissant at Coquelicot des Abbesses, and head to Place des Abbesses. This vibrant square transforms into a treasure hunter’s paradise each Sunday, with tables overflowing with knick-knacks and vintage finds. Old doorknobs, spoons, books, vintage postcards, and more await leisurely exploration. Modern Parisian jewelry artists also showcase their creations here.
Halle Saint-Pierre: Where Art, History, and Coffee Collide
Nestled beneath the Sacré-Coeur and the Butte Montmartre gardens, Halle Saint-Pierre offers a sanctuary for modern art exhibits. Explore its wonderful library, housing books that capture the essence of Montmartre’s magical years, perfect for souvenir hunting. Naturally, Halle Saint-Pierre also features a welcoming café, where you can enjoy croissants, pain au chocolat, and coffee. Visit their website for current exhibitions: www.hallesaintpierre.org.
