Imagine a place where shimmering stained glass paints the world in a kaleidoscope of colors, where history whispers from the walls, and where the very air seems to hum with spirituality. That, my friends, is Sainte-Chapelle, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture nestled in the heart of Paris.
A Royal Sanctuary
My journey to Sainte-Chapelle was a long one, but the wait was well worth it. Nestled in the courtyard of the former royal palace on the Île de la Cité, this chapel is a beacon of beauty and a testament to faith. I was fortunate enough to be staying in a central hotel, allowing me to easily walk past the iconic Notre Dame Cathedral, with its intricate gargoyles – those medieval rain gutters, a sight to behold!
Continuing my walk towards the Palace of Justice, I arrived at the site where King Louis IX, later known as Saint Louis, commissioned and built Sainte-Chapelle between 1246 and 1248. This personal church was built to house his precious relics, including the Crown of Thorns and a fragment of the True Cross, relics he acquired from the Emperor of Constantinople for an exorbitant sum of 135,000 livres (the cost of building the chapel itself was a mere 40,000 livres!). These precious treasures were only unveiled to the public on Good Friday.
A Symphony of Light and Color
The Gothic structure, though small compared to the grand cathedrals of the era, stands tall, its delicate stonework and arches reaching towards the heavens. Despite its size, it is majestic, with a unique verticality that sets it apart.
After waiting in line for about fifteen minutes and passing through a security check, I entered the lower chapel or parish church, which was used by the non-royal workers of the palace. The arched ceiling, which supports the king’s upper sanctuary, is adorned with gold paint, creating a stunning contrast against the starry sky painted on the ceiling. A statue of the Virgin Mary dominates the church, to whom it is dedicated.
But the real magic lies in the upper chapel, reached by a narrow, winding staircase. The stained glass, considered some of the finest in the world, steals your breath away. The translucent reflections of colored light and golden hues fill the space with a mesmerizing ambiance. The walls of windows rise high, bathing the chapel in a tranquil light. A 15th-century rose window adds a touch of contrast to the spectacle. The benches invite visitors to sit, contemplate, and lose themselves in the biblical stories woven into the stained glass.
A Tale of Time and Restoration
Two-thirds of the stained glass, predominantly blue and red, remains authentic, a testament to the dedication of the original artisans. The remaining windows were painstakingly restored by craftsmen over a 20-year period, starting in 1840. The chapel’s preservation is a story of survival. It endured the tumultuous period of the French Revolution, being converted into an administrative office which, ironically, helped shield the windows from harm. They were removed for safekeeping during the early 19th century and again during World War II, before being reinstalled after the war.
As for the prestigious relics, their fate is shrouded in mystery. Some believe they were melted down, while others maintain they survived and are stored as the “relics of Sainte-Chapelle” at Notre Dame. Regardless of their fate, Sainte-Chapelle remains a must-see for any visitor to Paris.
A Parisian Gem
Whether you’re an art enthusiast, a history buff, or simply seeking a moment of tranquility, Sainte-Chapelle is a must-visit destination in Paris. It’s a place where beauty and faith intertwine to create an unforgettable experience. Don’t forget to consider staying in a hotel in Paris city centre for easy access to other iconic Parisian landmarks, including the Louvre and Notre Dame. My recommendation is Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais, a charming boutique hotel within walking distance of these treasures. So, venture into the heart of Paris, and discover the awe-inspiring Sainte-Chapelle.