The Left Bank of Paris whispers with the romance of a bygone era. Just the names – the Latin Quarter, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Montparnasse – evoke visions of charming cobblestone streets, iconic bridges spanning the Seine, literary history, and cozy, intimate bistros. We’ve carefully compiled this list of ten captivating bistros and restaurants, each a testament to the enduring allure of the Left Bank.
Chez Marcel: A Classic Parisian Bistro
Tucked away on a quiet street near Montparnasse, Chez Marcel is a quintessential Parisian bistro. Its modest dining room, adorned with vintage photos and gleaming copper pots, has been serving Lyon’s culinary delights since 1919. From the savory andouillette (country sausage) to the decadent escargots, each dish is a tribute to the region’s rich culinary heritage. While the space is small and tables are close together, the intimate atmosphere and authentic bistro experience are sure to charm. Reservations are highly recommended for this popular spot.
Le Petit Paris: A Step Back in Time
Confit de canard, boeuf bourguignon, cuisses de grenouilles persillade (frog’s legs with parsley) – this old-fashioned bistro offers a hearty taste of French tradition. Stepping into the dining room, which dates back to 1901, is like stepping into a time capsule. The walls are adorned with Parisian history, and the heavy wooden revolving door adds to the nostalgic charm. Though the service is quick and efficient, the focus here is on the classic French cuisine, and the cozy, unpretentious ambiance adds to the experience. Just be warned, credit cards are not accepted.
Le Reminet: A Parisian Gem
This candlelit bistro with velvet banquettes, gilt mirrors, and crystal chandeliers embodies Parisian elegance. While some reviews from years ago may paint a different picture, Le Reminet continues to attract both local clientele and tourists. The menu features classic French fare, including foie gras, fresh oysters, and the restaurant’s signature slow-simmered beef cheeks served over creamy mashed potatoes. Le Reminet is a charming reminder that even in a touristy area, authentic Parisian experiences can be found.
Le Select: A Literary Haven
Of all the literary cafes of the Jazz Age, Le Select remains a timeless icon, retaining its original charm from when Hemingway and Fitzgerald frequented its doors. The ochre-colored walls, 1920s moldings, Lalique lighting fixtures, and wrought-iron details create a captivating ambiance. Le Select serves basic bistro fare, from steak tartare to grilled onglet de boeuf (hangar steak), but it’s the history that truly sets it apart. Located just around the corner from Chez Marcel, Le Select is a must-visit for any literary enthusiast.
Bouillon Racine: An Art Nouveau Masterpiece
Bouillon Racine is a testament to the beauty of Art Nouveau design, showcasing curves, swirls, period mirrors, and wrought-iron furniture. In 1906, the Chartier family opened their second location on Rue Racine, adding to their already renowned restaurant in the 9th arrondissement. After a period of decline, the University of Paris acquired the building in 1962, using it as a staff cafeteria. Now, after an extensive restoration, Bouillon Racine has been restored to its former glory.
This elegant bistro offers a delightful selection of classic French dishes, from frisée salad with smoked bacon to poulet fermier rôti frites (roast chicken with fries). Both the building’s exterior and the Art Nouveau interior have been designated historical monuments, making it a unique architectural treasure. The term “bouillon” traditionally refers to 19th-century restaurants offering traditional French cuisine at affordable prices, a legacy that Bouillon Racine continues to uphold.
Brasserie Lipp: A Parisian Institution
Despite its central location, Brasserie Lipp is far from an overpriced tourist trap. While not known for fine dining or elegant surroundings, its history dating back to 1880 and its vibrant atmosphere contribute to its charm. Diners are packed together, creating a lively mix of locals and tourists. The veteran servers, with their playful banter, add to the lively ambiance. Expect classic dishes like caviar, herring, choucroute Lipp (Alsatian sauerkraut with sausages), and pied de porc farci grillé (stuffed and grilled pig’s trotters), all best enjoyed with a glass of wine or a cold beer.
La Rôtisserie d’Argent: A Relaxed Feast
A hidden gem in the 5th arrondissement, La Rôtisserie d’Argent offers a more relaxed alternative to its Michelin-starred sister, the Tour d’Argent. The family-run establishment boasts a lively ambiance, with small tables covered in red and white checkered tablecloths and large windows overlooking the Seine. The star of the show is the rotisserie, showcasing slow-roasted meats and poultry. This bistro is a haven for those seeking classic French cuisine, with dishes like roast duck, confit de canard, and a variety of other hearty options.
Le Christine: Culinary Magic in the Latin Quarter
Nestled in the historic Latin Quarter, Le Christine is a testament to the culinary magic that unfolds in this vibrant area. The restaurant, located in a beautiful space with stone walls, wooden beams, and a cozy banquette, offers a delightful dining experience. While à la carte options are available, the service en quatre plats (four-course tasting menu) is highly recommended, showcasing the chef’s creativity. The restaurant’s 17th-century courtyard adds a touch of history and charm to the already enchanting setting.
La Closerie des Lilas: A Literary Legacy
Hemingway’s name is synonymous with the historic Montparnasse neighborhood, and La Closerie des Lilas is a testament to his presence. This iconic establishment became a favorite haunt for Papa after he moved to Rue Notre-Dame des Champs in 1924. The restaurant offers a choice of dining experiences: a fine dining restaurant or a more relaxed brasserie.
Regardless of your choice, the restaurant’s history is palpable, as it has hosted countless artists and writers, from Hemingway and Fitzgerald to Picasso and Sartre. While the past may be a source of inspiration, the present-day menu boasts dishes that will tantalize your taste buds, from fresh oysters and escargots to the signature Hemingway-style steak and crispy frites. A piano bar offers a chance to enjoy live music and experience the spirit of Paris.
