Paris beckoned with the allure of a new hotel, a sprawling art exhibition, and the promise of delicious culinary experiences. The opening of the 91-room Bloom House Hotel & Spa in September was the catalyst for a pre-Christmas Eurostar journey, offering a seamless transition from train to hotel courtyard oasis in just 10 minutes. The hotel’s tranquil garden, centered around a serene green-tiled pond, provided the perfect setting for leisurely lunches or evening cocktails under a festoon-lit pergola.
A Stroll Along the Canal Saint-Martin
Our first afternoon was spent exploring the bohemian Canal Saint-Martin, a short walk from the hotel. This 4.5km canal, winding through the 10th and 11th arrondissements, is a vibrant tapestry of independent shops, delis, and cafés. We meandered along the Quai de Valmy, drawn to Antoine & Lili, a trio of shops with a captivating sunflower facade. Their collection of velvet trousers was irresistible! Just a few doors down, Babel, a unique brocante and déco-cadeaux store, tempted us with a curated selection of new and vintage treasures.
Indulging in Parisian Delights
The aroma of artisanal ice cream lured us to Sucre Glace, where we discovered the delight of vegan pear with tonka bean sorbet. It’s impossible to resist the enticing confectionery that adorns every Parisian street corner! While crossing one of the canal’s numerous iron bridges, we witnessed a tourist barge glide beneath us, inspiring us to consider a canal cruise with Canauxrama or Paris Canal.
Beyond the picture-perfect views, the canal’s hidden side streets unveiled unexpected gems. We stumbled upon the Jardin Villemin, a community garden nestled in a former convent-turned-military hospital. This tranquil space boasts a playground, mature trees, and a sprawling lawn ideal for relaxation.
A Gastronomic Journey
After a rejuvenating sauna and swim at the Bloom House spa, we joined friends at Poulette, a lively neighborhood bistro near Les Halles and the Pompidou Centre. We savored baked figs with honey and thyme while perched on stools at the zinc bar.
The following day, our culinary adventure continued at Eunoé, a captivating French-Japanese restaurant in the 11th arrondissement. Its Proustian spirit, embodied in the tagline “A Parisian restaurant evocative of memories to create new ones,” set the stage for a memorable meal. The beetroot velouté was a revelation, converting this root vegetable skeptic. The baked pear with creamed goat’s cheese was a symphony of flavors, a moment to savor and remember.
A Tribute to Artistic Masters
Our journey took us to Père-Lachaise cemetery, where we paid homage to Jim Morrison, Modigliani, Colette, and Proust. It was a poignant experience, particularly as we searched for Modigliani’s modest grave, marked by a couple of paintbrushes peeking from dried flowers. His untimely death at the age of 36 served as a somber backdrop to the exceptional exhibition at the Musée de l’Orangerie, showcasing works shaped by his relationship with Parisian dealer Paul Guillaume.
Across the river, the Musée d’Orsay presented “Van Gogh in Auvers-sur-Oise,” a captivating exhibition exploring the troubled artist’s final months. The colorful contortions of his last painting, “Tree Roots (1890)“, left an enduring impression.
New Galleries and Culinary Delights
The newly opened Hauser & Wirth Paris gallery near the Champs-Élysées was a sight to behold. Housed in an imposing neoclassical hôtel particulier, it inaugurated its space with an exhibition by Los Angeles-based figurative painter Henry Taylor.
Lordy’s Paris Club, a newly refurbished French restaurant with a British twist, also near the Champs-Élysées, offered a comforting cheese and mushroom “British pie” for homesick travelers. For a more authentic Parisian experience, the ParisLocal festival celebrated 600 artisans, ranging from cheesemakers to pastry-makers, wigmakers to embroiderers, opening their workshops to the public from November 17-19.
A Final Stroll Along the Canal
Our final morning found us back at the Canal Saint-Martin, this time to shop for girolles and fromage at the Marché Bastille. The lively atmosphere of the Bar du Marché on Boulevard Richard-Lenoir was a perfect way to conclude our Parisian adventure. We were entertained by a woman cycling past with five dogs in a wagon and a steampunk ambulatory metal cow-cum-bicycle trailer, a testament to the city’s unpredictable charm. The comfortable Eurostar ride home allowed us to reflect on the many memories we had made.
Art and Food at Parisian Venues
- Café Renoir, Musée de Montmartre: Situated behind Sacré-Cœur, this glasshouse café offers panoramic views of the Renoir Gardens. Enjoy a goat’s cheese and honey baguette or quinoa and feta salad while admiring the permanent exhibition of artists, including Raoul Dufy and Suzanne Valadon.
- Georges, Centre Pompidou: This restaurant at the top of the National Museum of Modern Art boasts stunning views of the City of Lights, including the Eiffel Tower. Opt for afternoon tea to savor the panoramic vistas without breaking the bank.
- Le Restaurant, Musée D’Orsay: This gilded Beaux Arts dining room offers spectacular views of the Seine and an elegant setting for lunch or dinner.
Information:
Rooms at Bloom House Hotel & Spa start from €160 per night (bloomhouse-hotel.com). For further information about ParisLocal, see parislocal.parisjetaime.com.
“Amedeo Modigliani. A painter and his dealer” is at the Musée de l’Orangerie until 15 January 2024 (musee-orangerie.fr).
“Van Gogh in Auvers-sur-Oise – The Final Months” is at the Musée D’Orsay until 4 February 2024 (musee-orsay.fr).
“Henry Taylor: From Sugar to Shit” is at Hauser & Wirth Paris until 7 January 2024 (hauserwirth.com).
