The Eglise de la Madeleine, standing tall and proud to the northeast of the Place de la Concorde, is a must-see landmark in the City of Lights. Its imposing stature and rich history have captivated visitors for centuries. But what truly sets it apart is its unique architectural style, which resembles a grand Greek temple rather than a traditional church.
A Touch of Color amidst Austerity
During much of the year, the steps leading up to the church are adorned with vibrant flowers, adding a splash of color to the otherwise austere facade. This creates a beautiful contrast, drawing the eye to the temple’s majestic presence.
A Long and Winding Road to Completion
The story of La Madeleine is one of twists and turns, reflecting the tumultuous history of France itself. Construction began in 1764 under the reign of Louis XV, with architect Pierre Constant d’Ivry initially drawing inspiration from the St-Louis-des-Invalides Church.
However, tragedy struck when d’Ivry passed away in 1777. His successor, Guillaume-Martin Couture, rejected d’Ivry’s plans, seen today in the Musée Carnavalet, and decided to demolish the unfinished structure. He envisioned a new design based on the Panthéon, but these plans were also met with disapproval, bringing construction to a standstill between 1790 and 1806.
A Temple for Glory, Then a Church
Napoléon Bonaparte, the emperor of France, then intervened, deciding to build a Temple of Glory in honor of his Grande Armée. Pierre-Alexandre Vignon was entrusted with the task of designing this magnificent monument. The existing remnants of the earlier construction were discarded, and work commenced on a beautiful Greek temple.
But the edifice’s commemorative purpose was short-lived. With the completion of the Arc de Triomphe in 1808, the focus of the structure shifted once more. In 1814, Louis XVIII declared that La Madeleine should become a church, yet in 1837, it was almost chosen as the site for Paris’s first railway station.
Finally, in 1842, the church was consecrated, marking the culmination of a long and arduous journey.
A Blend of Greek and Roman Styles
La Madeleine’s striking exterior is a testament to the grandeur of classical architecture. The church is surrounded by 52 towering Corinthian columns, each reaching 20 meters in height. A massive pediment, depicting The Last Judgement, crowns the front of the building. The columns are adorned with a sculpted frieze, reminiscent of ancient Greek temples, adding to the structure’s majestic presence.
While architectural purists might point out deviations from true Greek and Roman temple proportions, the overall effect is undeniably breathtaking. The imposing columns and their arrangement create a sense of awe and grandeur that transcends any minor inconsistencies.
A Journey from the Exterior to the Interior
From the front of the church, a stunning vista unfolds, stretching down the Rue Royale all the way to the Place de la Concorde. This perspective perfectly frames the church’s magnificence, drawing the visitor in.
Stepping inside, one might be surprised by the church’s relatively somber interior. Although it doesn’t quite live up to the grandeur promised by the exterior, there are still several noteworthy features worth exploring.
Artistic Masterpieces Within
A dramatic stone sculpture, depicting the “Ascension of Sainte Marie Madeline”, dominates the church’s interior. Executed by Charles Marochetti in 1837, the sculpture shows Sainte Marie Madeline being lifted to heaven by two angels, drawing the eye towards the high altar.
The half-dome above is adorned with a magnificent fresco by Jules-Claude Ziegler, a student of Ingres. Titled “The History of Christianity”, it commemorates the concordat signed between the church and state after the French Revolution, showcasing all the key figures in Christendom.
A grand pipe organ, built by Cavaillé-Coll in 1846, adds to the church’s splendor. Still used for concerts today, it fills the interior with a rich and resonant sound. Despite the ornate marble decorations, the church’s interior remains relatively simple, allowing the focus to remain on the artwork and architecture.
Exploring the Surroundings
Just outside the eastern side of La Madeleine, you’ll discover one of Paris’s oldest flower markets, dating back to 1832. Open every day except Monday, it offers a vibrant and aromatic experience. Nearby, you’ll find some of the most luxurious public toilets in Paris, their original 1905 Art Nouveau decor meticulously preserved.
Across the Place de la Madeleine, you’ll encounter the legendary Fauchon delicatessen, a haven for gourmet food lovers. On the west side, you’ll find the smaller but equally exquisite Hédiard’s, specializing in caviar, truffles, and other luxurious delicacies. These shops are a feast for the senses, offering a tantalizing glimpse into the world of Parisian culinary excellence.
A Parisian Must-See
The Eglise de la Madeleine is more than just a beautiful church; it is a monument to the rich history, artistic brilliance, and enduring spirit of Paris. Whether you are an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply looking for a stunning place to visit, La Madeleine is a must-see destination. Its grandeur, history, and surrounding attractions make it a truly unique and unforgettable experience.
