Imagine dining in a Michelin-starred restaurant where you choose your wine before you even glance at the menu. This isn’t just a quirk; it’s the signature experience at L’Écrin, nestled within the opulent Hôtel de Crillon in Paris.
This exquisite restaurant, with its 36 seats, is more than just a dining destination; it’s a testament to the artistry of wine. Xavier Thuizat, the head sommelier, has turned every sommelier’s dream into reality. He has crafted a dining experience where wine takes center stage, influencing the creation of the menu itself.
A Wine-Centric Experience
Thuizat’s passion for wine runs deep. He was born in the historic Hospices de Beaune, a building renowned for its annual wine auction. It’s fitting, then, that his career has led him to a restaurant where wine reigns supreme.
At L’Écrin, the tables are devoid of traditional place settings. Instead, they feature a single, elegant wineglass, a nod to Marie Antoinette’s preference for drinking quickly. This unique setting sets the stage for an immersive wine experience.
As Thuizat expertly pours a glass of Pol Roger, he explains the meticulous process behind its creation. He highlights the extended contact between the yeast and the wine, which imparts rich, roasted flavors. It’s no wonder, he notes, that Winston Churchill was rumored to have enjoyed two bottles of Pol a day.
A Collaborative Masterpiece
Thuizat’s deep knowledge and discerning palate are evident in the exceptional selection of wines he presents. He meticulously curates a list of 2,300 wines from 13 countries, emphasizing lesser-known gems within renowned appellations. He believes in encouraging diners to explore beyond the familiar.
The wine list is not just a collection of bottles; it’s the foundation of the entire dining experience. Thuizat closely collaborates with the kitchen, communicating his chosen wines to inspire the chefs. He considers the wine’s flavors, acidity, tannins, and alcohol content, shaping the menu to complement the selected vintages.
Thuizat’s passion for wine is contagious. He delights in introducing diners to new discoveries. He’s not afraid to take risks, even when faced with guests’ unconventional preferences. His commitment to excellence has earned him numerous accolades, including the prestigious title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France.
A Journey of Flavor and Discovery
At L’Écrin, every detail is meticulously crafted to create a truly memorable dining experience. The food and wine are exceptional, but the true magic lies in the unexpected. Imagine a lemon, bread, and ginger-snap pudding baked in a clay pot, smashed open at the table, paired with a magnificent Château Climens 2012. It’s a testament to Thuizat’s ability to combine the classic with the innovative.
Thuizat’s vision extends beyond L’Écrin. He oversees wine programs at Rosewood hotels across Europe, each featuring its own distinct character. He’s also taking the helm at Schloss Fuschl in Salzburg, introducing an all-Austrian wine list dedicated to the legendary Mozart.
His passion for wine is deeply ingrained in him, perhaps influenced by his grandfather’s vineyard. While the vineyard was sold after the war, Thuizat finds solace in his current role. He is able to purchase wines from that very vineyard for L’Écrin, a beautiful and fitting tribute to his heritage.
L’Écrin is more than just a restaurant; it’s a testament to the power of wine to create unforgettable experiences. Xavier Thuizat’s vision has transformed the dining experience, placing wine at the heart of every delicious moment.
For more information, visit rosewoodhotels.com.
—
Five Delicious Bottles to Glug Over Summer
Beautiful white burgundy, aged partly in new oak and full of tasty grilled-hazelnut fruit.
£56, bbr.com
