Paris is a city that seduces all the senses, and its food scene is no exception. In this city, dining is an experience, a symphony of flavor, aroma, presentation, and ambiance. While many restaurants boast stunning interiors, the most captivating ones are those that weave a delicious tapestry of history. These restaurants are not just places to eat; they are living museums, whispering tales of bygone eras and legendary patrons.
A Stroll Through Time: Iconic Restaurants with a Past
Maxim’s is synonymous with Parisian grandeur. Stepping inside is like entering a gilded dream, a symphony of Art Nouveau flourishes: floral lamps, stained glass, and plush ruby and mahogany hues. Its history is equally resplendent, a who’s who of the A-list, from Marcel Proust to Brigitte Bardot to Mick Jagger. Maxim’s has graced the silver screen, appearing in films like Gigi, Chéri, and Midnight in Paris. But this 130-year-old legend has recently undergone a renaissance, with refreshed management breathing new life into its storied menu of French classics. Be sure to savor the cheese soufflé and crêpe Suzette, and linger in the exotic ambience of the late-night bar.
Laurent, a salmon-pink Pompeian-style pavilion nestled within the charming Jardin des Champs-Élysées, has always held a certain magnetic allure. Originally a royal hunting lodge, the building was transformed into a restaurant in 1842 by Jacques Ignace Hittorff, a renowned architect. Over the years, Laurent has witnessed powerful business lunches and dinners, its proximity to the Élysée Palace and embassies making it a hub for the elite. Now under the stewardship of Paris Society, Laurent has been revitalized with an elegant touch by Cordélia de Castellane, artistic director of Dior Maison. The result is a heart-lifting blend of black and white tiles, pastel walls, and glittering chandeliers, evoking the Belle Époque. The menu, like the décor, is light and French, offering a sensory feast of crudités with soufflé aioli, sea scallops with truffle vinaigrette, and golden caviar mousseline brioche. The experience culminates in a glittering dessert trolley, the perfect end to a French culinary journey.
Lafayette’s, the most anticipated new restaurant of 2023, occupies a glamorous wing of an 18th-century townhouse, the former residence of the Marquis de Lafayette, the French hero of the American Revolution. Chef Mory Sacko, a breakout star of French Top Chef, has created a menu that celebrates the French palate with American and African influences. Expect delights such as corn chowder encased in puff pastry, fried chicken, sole meunière in champagne sauce, sweet potato curry, and a cheeseburger with Cajun-spiced fries. The plush, candlelit interiors evoke the warmth and comfort of the Marquis’s final years, offering an intimate setting to savor the flavors of history and innovation.
Reviving Legends: Restorations that Rekindle Glamour
La Tour d’Argent stands as a monument to Parisian haute cuisine, a restaurant that has defined the culinary landscape for generations. Its history stretches back to 1582, when the first Restaurant de la Tour d’Argent opened on this site, inspired by the shimmering stones of the Château de la Tournelle. From playboys to princes, courtesans to countesses, La Tour d’Argent has welcomed an eclectic cast of characters, each leaving their mark on its legend. The restaurant underwent a major renovation, led by grandson André Terrail. The signature pressed duck dish remains, alongside the breathtaking river view of Notre-Dame, but the dining room has been streamlined, shedding its former chintz décor. A zinc-adorned rooftop bar and a first-floor speakeasy-esque bar have been added, offering new ways to experience this iconic restaurant.
Procope, one of the city’s first cafés, opened in 1686, and has long been a restaurant steeped in the spirit of the Age of Enlightenment. Its chandelier-lit dining rooms are adorned with mirror walls, antique furniture, and curiosities. Even the desk and hat of Voltaire and Napoléon, two of its most famous patrons, are on display. Procope’s new Café-Glacier room harkens back to its origins, when it was renowned for its iced drinks and coffee, a newfangled concoction at the time. Sink into a luxurious armchair and indulge in coffees, hot chocolates, ice creams, and pastries.
Lapérouse is another Parisian institution, a gastronomic sensation since the Belle Époque. Its lavishly decorated private rooms were favored by libertines who sought discretion and decadence, accessible via a secret stairway. The patinaed wall paintings, crystal chandeliers, and scratched mirrors tell tales of romantic escapades. Lapérouse offers lavish dining rooms and a menu of traditional French flamboyance, one that Julia Child herself enjoyed on her fortieth birthday. The ground-floor bar also has a cinematic presence, featured in Midnight in Paris, a film that celebrates the layered history of Parisian culture.
These restaurants are more than just places to eat; they are living testaments to the city’s rich history and enduring allure. They offer a unique opportunity to savor not only delicious food but also a slice of Paris’s captivating past.
