Paris, a city renowned for its beauty, is home to countless enchanting restaurants. However, few can rival the allure of the Art Nouveau cafes that blossomed during the Belle Époque (roughly 1871-1914). This era, marked by rapid technological advancements and grand urban projects, witnessed a surge in Parisian restaurateurs transforming their simple “bouillons” into lavish dining halls, reflecting the era’s fashionable flair.
A glimpse into the past: These classic venues, though challenged by the passage of time, have weathered the storm, with some even experiencing a remarkable revival in the contemporary Parisian dining scene. Let’s embark on a journey to discover these remarkable establishments and their captivating stories.
A Timeless Icon: Maxim’s
Maxim’s, a legendary dining institution, is not only a prime example of Art Nouveau architecture but also held the prestigious title of the world’s most celebrated restaurant during its heyday. Inaugurated in 1893 by Maxime Gaillard, a former waiter, the restaurant received a stunning makeover for the 1900 World’s Fair under its second owner, Eugene Cornuché. To realize his ambitious vision, Cornuché enlisted the talents of renowned artists from the “Ecole de Nancy,” a collective of artists and artisans hailing from the eastern French city of Nancy.
These artistic masters breathed life into the space with graceful murals, mirrors adorned with hand-carved mahogany frames, and flowing copper and brass embellishments. This captivating ambiance, coupled with atmospheric piano music, quickly propelled Maxim’s to the pinnacle of Parisian social life. The restaurant, frequented by celebrities like Brigitte Bardot, Aristotle Onassis, Barbra Streisand, and John Travolta, maintained its reputation through the 1970s. Today, under the ownership of designer Pierre Cardin, this evening-only establishment continues to enchant guests with its timeless charm, housing a personal collection of Art Nouveau decorative arts (available for viewing upon reservation).
The Chartier Brothers: A Culinary Dynasty
The Chartier brothers, renowned for their culinary prowess, left their mark on Parisian dining with a string of impressive restaurants. Their first endeavor, Bouillon Chartier, still stands today, though it lacks the opulent Art Nouveau décor of its siblings. Their second triumph, Le Vagenende, a stylish eatery located on Boulevard Saint-Germain, is a testament to their artistic vision.
In 1904, the brothers transformed a 19th-century pastry shop into this exquisite dining destination, adorned with remarkable Art Nouveau frescoes, mirrors, curved wood trim, and bronze coat racks. The restaurant, acquired by the Vagenende family in the 1920s, faced imminent demolition in 1966 when it was earmarked for a supermarket. However, French Culture Minister André Malraux intervened, saving this historic bistro from a tragic fate. Meticulously restored, Le Vagenende has been classified as a historic site since 1983, standing as a testament to its enduring legacy.
Hidden Gems: Bouillon Racine and Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse
The Chartier brothers’ legacy continues to shine in the enchanting Bouillon Racine, tucked away on a peaceful street near the Luxembourg Gardens. Inaugurated in 1906, this airy bistro boasts expansive windows, extensive mirrors and tiles, and painted woodwork in the soothing pale green color that is synonymous with Art Nouveau, particularly evident in Hector Guimard’s Métro stations from the same era.
The bistro, however, faced a period of obscurity from the 1960s to the 1990s, serving as the staff dining room for the Sorbonne University. Fortuitously, it was rescued from oblivion, restored, and reopened in its current form, reclaiming its place as a Parisian treasure.
Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse, originally opened as a simple establishment in 1858, underwent a dramatic transformation under the ownership of Edouard Chartier in 1903. Following the pattern of his other triumphs, he bestowed upon it a breathtaking Art Nouveau makeover. The spacious dining room, a well-preserved time capsule, is adorned with quintessential Art Nouveau elements such as curved mirrors, floral motif tiles, shimmering lighting, and a remarkable stained glass ceiling, creating a visual feast.
After changing hands several times in the 20th century, the restaurant returned to the Chartier family, reopening as a “bouillon” in early 2019. This is welcome news for budget-conscious diners, as this visually opulent establishment offers delectable cuisine at affordable prices.
A Symphony of Art Nouveau: Bouillon Julien and Le Mollard
Bouillon Julien, a masterpiece of Parisian Art Nouveau, opened its doors in 1906 and, like Maxim’s, was graced by the artistic talents of the Ecole de Nancy. Their masterful craftsmanship is evident in the imposing mahogany bar, unique painted glass panels depicting the four seasons, inspired by Alfons Mucha’s work, and a soaring stained glass ceiling.
No wonder Edith Piaf and her lover, champion boxer Marcel Cerdan, found solace in this elegant space. Today, the restaurant, having joined the trend of revitalized bouillons, reopened in 2018 with a refreshed yet faithful-to-its-roots décor, offering classic French dishes at bargain prices.
Le Mollard, a testament to the Belle Époque’s architectural brilliance, was the brainchild of the Mollard family, who expanded their bar business in front of the Saint-Lazare train station into a grand restaurant. The celebrated architect of the Belle Époque, Édouard Niermans, meticulously crafted this sumptuous space in 1895, incorporating marble columns, gold-trimmed mosaics, and tiled scenes depicting countryside excursions accessible by train from the nearby station.
However, the advent of Art Deco in the 1920s relegated Le Mollard to the realm of outdated style. The restaurant’s splendid interiors were concealed beneath layers of paint and mirrors. After nearly half a century of obscurity, a major restoration in 1965 restored Le Mollard to its former glory, allowing diners to experience the refined ambiance once again.
A Winter Garden of Delights: Beefbar Paris and Petit Bouillon Pharamond
Beefbar Paris, housed in a veritable Art Nouveau gem known as La Fermette Marbeuf, is the brainchild of restaurant magnate Riccardo Giraudi, who transformed the space into a branch of his premium, meat-centric brand. Happily, the original décor, designed as a “winter garden,” an indoor evocation of summer, has been preserved, with only a few contemporary touches added.
Gentle light streams through the arched stained glass ceiling, illuminating ceramic walls adorned with blooming flowers, intricate foliage, dancing dragonflies, and elegant Belle Époque ladies. Beefbar Paris offers a sublime ambiance for savoring premium Kobe or Black Angus steak.
Petit Bouillon Pharamond, originally established in 1832 near the Les Halles market, was relocated to its current location in 1879 by the Pharamond family, who specialized in tripe dishes, a specialty of their native Normandy. Like many astute restaurateurs of the era, the Pharamond family embraced the latest styles in preparation for the 1900 World’s Fair, giving their establishment a stunning makeover.
Despite several changes in ownership, Petit Bouillon Pharamond has retained its name, magnificent historic décor, and exceptional cuisine. Amidst the familiar Art Nouveau elements like carved woodwork and painted mirrors, you’ll find tiles depicting food items and pots, a nod to their signature dish.
Modern Revival: Poulette
Poulette, situated in the Les Halles area, embodies the spirit of modern revitalization. Mélodie and Antoine Goldschmid, after spending years in New York and seeking a restaurant lease back in France, stumbled upon a hidden gem. A century of grime masked floor-to-ceiling walls adorned with extraordinary Art Nouveau tiles dating back to 1906. These artistic tiles feature gracefully winding flowers, curvaceous urns, and allegories to coffee and beer.
The classic zinc bar, salvaged during the extensive renovations completed in 2013, adds a touch of vintage charm to the space. This perfect neighborhood bistro boasts a refreshed look, perfectly complemented by a modern, market-driven menu, biodynamic wines, and creative cocktails.
