Paris, the City of Lights, is also the City of Food. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a first-timer, dining in Paris can be a wonderful experience. But with a little knowledge, you can elevate your experience and savor the flavors of France even more. I’ve gathered some tips from my years as an American expat living in Paris and frequent tourist since ’89, and I’m happy to share them with you.
From Water to Dessert: Navigating the Parisian Menu
“Carafe d’eau” – Your Thirst-Quenching Friend:
Forget paying for bottled water. Ask for a “carafe d’eau”, and you’ll receive a complimentary bottle of tap water (usually still). Sparkling water will come at a cost. If your server asks “still or sparkling,” simply say “une carafe” for still water.
Pronunciation Tip: Remember to emphasize the first syllable in “carafe”, as in “CAR-afe.” Think of it as sounding like “care” rather than “car.”
Cafe Gourmand – Indulge in a Miniature Dessert Feast:
Want to sample a variety of sweet treats without breaking the bank? Order a “cafe gourmand”, which offers a delightful selection of 3-5 mini desserts alongside your coffee. This generous offering is often enough to share with a friend, making it an even better deal. One person can order the cafe gourmand, while the other enjoys a simple “cafe,” and both of you can savor the delectable desserts.
Bread – Your Savory Sidekick:
Don’t expect an individual bread plate. Instead, you’ll receive a basket of bread, which you can place on the table or your plate. Soak up the delicious sauce left after finishing your dish. It’s a delectable and traditional way to enjoy the last drops of flavor.
Navigating the French Pace: From Payment to Dinner Time
Paying When You Like: A Parisian Custom:
First-timers may be surprised by the relaxed pace of French service. The French typically won’t bring the bill until you ask for it. Simply request the bill from your server when you’re ready to leave.
Feeling Impatient? Stand and Go:
If you’re ready to go but can’t find your server, don’t fret! Just stand up and head towards the payment station on your way out. This practice is perfectly acceptable, except at Michelin-starred restaurants or places with exceptionally attentive service.
It’s not considered rude. I was a bit hesitant at first, but now it feels like a superpower.
Splitting the Bill and Dinner Time: Parisian Etiquette
Splitting the Bill with Ease:
It’s perfectly normal in Paris to split the bill evenly among your dining companions. However, if there are significant differences in what each person ordered (like wine), simply calculate the individual totals and pay the server one at a time. The last person covers the remaining balance.
Convenient Payment Systems:
Some restaurants have point-of-sale systems that allow the server to separate the bill for each person, making it incredibly convenient. However, many restaurants still handle it manually. Don’t worry, you can calculate the amounts yourself.
Dinner Time: When Paris Comes Alive:
In Paris, dinnertime is typically at 8 or 9 pm. You’ll often see Parisians enjoying “apéro” (drinks and appetizers) at 6 or 7 pm. People generally finish their workday around 7 pm, so you won’t find many Parisians dining at 6 pm.
Embrace the Evening:
The atmosphere is usually more lively if you dine at 8:30 pm or later. You can certainly eat earlier, but you might find yourself alone with a few fellow tourists.
I hope you find these tips helpful. I’d love to hear your thoughts and any additional tips you’d like to share! Bon appétit!
