For those of us who call Paris home, the Arc de Triomphe is a constant presence. But for many, it remains an untrodden landmark. Despite living in the City of Lights for over a decade, I had never ventured inside the monument. This summer, with tourism subdued and staycations the norm, I finally took the plunge.
A Symbol of French History and Conflict
While the Eiffel Tower and Sacré Coeur may be more visually dominant, the Arc de Triomphe carries a different kind of weight. It’s a historical tapestry woven with threads of victory, protest, and national identity.
General de Gaulle’s triumphant parade after World War II, the outpouring of national pride during the 1998 World Cup victory, and the annual finish line of the Tour de France all find their stage here. However, the Arc’s story also includes darker chapters. The 2019 “gilets jaunes” protests, fueled by discontent over economic policies, transformed the monument into a battleground. My Syrian photographer friend, who had covered the brutal civil war in his homeland, likened those Sundays to a warzone. The violence was palpable, with protesters losing limbs and the Arc itself vandalized.
Climbing the Steps of History
Stepping beneath the monument’s imposing presence, I felt a surge of awe. The intricate details, etched into the grey stone, whispered tales of France’s past. The names of battles and generals who fought for France during the Revolution and Napoleonic era were inscribed, those who died in combat marked with an underscore. Plaques dedicated to the wars in Indochina, Algeria, and Korea stood as somber reminders of the country’s past conflicts. A plaque bearing the transcript of de Gaulle’s stirring 1940 appeal to resist the Vichy government served as a counterpoint, highlighting the spirit of defiance.
Beneath the Arc, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier faces the Champs-Élysées, its eternal flame burning continuously since 1923. It’s a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made in both world wars.
A Journey Through Time
The narrow, spiraling stairway leading to the viewing gallery, while a challenge, provides a journey through time. On the way to the summit, small permanent exhibitions delve into the monument’s construction, unveiling the political struggles, design revisions, and architectural compromises that shaped its history. The installation recounting the Arc’s three-decade construction, from 1806 to 1836, is particularly captivating.
A View From Above
The view from the top is breathtaking. It’s a unique perspective of Paris, offering an intimate glimpse of the city’s green heart. From the ground, the tree-lined avenues emanating from the Arc in a star-like pattern are barely noticeable. But from the viewing gallery, the sprawling greenery becomes a striking element of the city’s landscape.
The 360-degree panorama, with its blend of historical landmarks and modern structures, provides a fascinating geographical context. The Tour Montparnasse, which Rohmer famously described as the ugliest building in Paris, serves as a reference point, allowing me to locate my own neighborhood. Looking further afield, the vast expanse of the Bois de Boulogne, a green oasis in the heart of the city, reveals its hidden magnitude.
Discovering a Hidden Treasure
The Arc de Triomphe is more than just a monument; it’s a gateway to understanding the city’s soul. It’s a place where history intertwines with the present, offering a unique and immersive experience. It’s a place where Parisians, veterans, and tourists alike can connect with the city’s past, present, and future.
