France, the home of the Eiffel Tower and the romantic city of Paris, is also renowned for its exquisite cheeses. In the global cheese market, French fromage sets the standard, with its diverse range of flavors and textures. However, this beloved national treasure is facing a significant challenge: the changing climate.
Imagine a world without Camembert, Roquefort, or Brie. It may seem unthinkable, but the rising temperatures and extreme weather events are putting a strain on the very foundation of French cheese production.
A Cheese-Loving Nation
Cheese is deeply ingrained in French culture, a symbol of tradition, heritage, and culinary excellence. The French are truly cheese enthusiasts, consuming an astonishing 57 pounds of cheese per person each year! This love affair with cheese is reflected in the staggering number of varieties produced, with over 1,000 different types of cheese gracing French tables.
Cheese plays a special role in French dining etiquette. It’s served after the main course and before dessert, a delightful transition from savory to sweet. Each piece is carefully cut to ensure everyone enjoys a taste of the cheese’s delicious rind and its unique flavor profile.
The diverse regions of France, known as terroirs, each nurture unique cheese varieties. These cheeses are categorized into seven distinct groups: fresh, blue-veined, hard, semi-hard, processed, soft-ripened, and chevre. The primary ingredient is milk, sourced from cows, sheep, goats, and occasionally buffalo.
One French food critic eloquently described the relationship between the French people and their cheese: “The history of French cheese is a love story between men, animals, and the earth.” This sentiment perfectly encapsulates the deep connection between French cheese and their rich cultural heritage.
A History Steeped in Cheese
The origins of cheese can be traced back to ancient times, with the first definitive evidence appearing in Egyptian wall art dating back to 2000 BC. However, the Romans are credited with introducing cheese to Europe.
Over the course of a thousand years of Roman rule, a vast array of cheeses were introduced to the continent. Many of the ancient recipes still survive today, while others were lost after the fall of Rome.
The art of cheesemaking flourished in French monasteries, where monks carefully preserved recipes for iconic cheeses like Munster, Gruyere, and Beaufort. During the 13th century, peasants began creating regional cheeses, sparking an economic revolution for French women. Mothers passed down their cheesemaking skills and recipes to their daughters, who continually refined and improved upon these traditions over generations. This dedication to cheesemaking, coupled with advancements in the production process and increased trade, led to a significant increase in cheese production.
Protecting the Legacy of French Cheese
To ensure the quality and authenticity of their cheeses, France established the Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP), a rigorous labeling system. This certification guarantees that French cheesemakers adhere to strict guidelines, encompassing everything from the breed of cattle and the type of feed they consume to the precise making and aging processes.
Climate Change and its Impact
Unfortunately, the changing climate is threatening to disrupt this carefully balanced system. Extreme temperatures, droughts, and wildfires are making it increasingly difficult for cheesemakers to meet the AOP’s strict standards.
Take, for example, Salers cheese, a renowned cheese hailing from the Auvergne region. Salers cheese production requires that at least 75% of the cows’ diet consists of locally grown grass. However, the Auvergne region’s seasonal grass growth is heavily influenced by climate conditions, making it challenging to meet the local feed threshold.
Finding Solutions in a Changing Climate
French farmers are resourceful and determined to safeguard their cheesemaking legacy. They’re exploring innovative solutions to adapt to the changing climate:
Some farmers are experimenting with drought-resistant crops, like African sorghum, to provide alternative feed for their cattle. Others are reducing their herd sizes to conserve precious grass resources.
Farmers are also taking advantage of the warmer winters, utilizing them to grow feed crops that traditionally thrive in the summer. The wet season is now being used to increase food stores by drying late-season crops indoors.
Some farmers are advocating for adjustments to the AOP labeling requirements to reflect the realities of a shifting climate. Their goal is to maintain the highest cheese quality standards without compromising their production in the face of environmental challenges.
A Future for French Cheese
The future of French cheese production is uncertain, but the resilience and ingenuity of French farmers offer a glimmer of hope. By embracing innovative solutions and working collaboratively, they are determined to preserve this cherished national treasure for generations to come.
