A recent stroll through the sixth arrondissement led me to rue des Beaux Arts, where a simple plaque on a hotel wall stopped me in my tracks.
“Oscar Wilde, Poet and Dramatist… Died in this building on November 30th, 1900.”
The plaque was attached to the l’Hôtel – a name I recognized, especially its Oscar Wilde suite. This was my chance to step into history.
I inquired about the suite with the receptionist, who informed me that it cost a whopping €800-€1,000 per night during peak season. But he was more than happy to show me around.
However, before I could even think about luxury accommodations, a question popped into my mind: What was Oscar Wilde’s connection to Paris?
From London’s High Society to Parisian Exile
Irish writer Oscar Wilde, known for his brilliant works like The Picture of Dorian Gray and The Importance of Being Earnest, was a celebrated figure in late 19th-century London. He was renowned for his wit, charm, and flamboyant style, often seen at the city’s most exclusive gatherings.
However, when his homosexuality became public, Wilde was ostracized, facing imprisonment and societal condemnation. His reputation shattered, he sought refuge in Paris.
In the Hôtel d’Alsace, now the five-star l’Hôtel, Wilde rented a modest apartment and resided there until his death in 1900. He famously quipped that he was “dying beyond his means”. Today, Wilde’s final resting place is the Père Lachaise cemetery in the 20th arrondissement, just a short distance from a children’s library aptly named Bibliotheque Oscar Wilde.
The Hotel: From Dilapidated to Glamorous
l’Hôtel Paris first opened its doors in 1828, but by all accounts, it was a far cry from the luxury establishment it is today. When Wilde stayed in the late 19th century, it was described as a dingy, depressing, and hopelessly unkempt place.
The hotel’s fortunes shifted in the 1960s, transforming into a hotspot for the Parisian elite. It played host to an impressive array of celebrities, including Salvador Dali, Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor, Jim Morrison, and Serge Gainsbourg.
Despite its small size – just 20 rooms – l’Hôtel is one of the smallest five-star hotels in Paris. It proudly proclaims that “each bedroom is different – each is opulent, fabulous, and sexy, just like Paris”. In honor of its most famous resident, the hotel features the Oscar Wilde Suite and the Wilde’s Lounge cocktail bar.
The Oscar Wilde Suite: A Glimpse into History
The hotel itself is a charming place, with a striking circular tower that leads to a skylight. However, the suite itself is a completely different story.
While the hotel’s website boasts about the suite’s opulence, the reality is that it was likely not the luxurious space it is today when Wilde was a resident.
Reports suggest that the suite was once a dingy, cramped space, with Wilde even complaining about its filthy state in a letter to his publisher.
It’s unlikely that Wilde ever stayed in the suite, given his dire financial situation and the suite’s generous size. It is rumored that he might have stayed in the basement or that his only view of the suite was the headboard of its bed.
The room has been meticulously redecorated to reflect Wilde’s London home. However, despite its charm, the suite has a touch of dissonance. The suite boasts a private terrace and a spacious bathroom, but the modern TV seems out of place amidst the period furniture and eye-catching wallpaper.
Despite these modern touches, the room is still uniquely evocative. It is adorned with pictures of Wilde, his last hotel bill, and caricatures of the writer. It’s hard not to feel a certain magic standing in a room dedicated to one of the great literary icons.
A Look Outside: The Terrace and Beyond
The suite boasts a spacious balcony, a rare find in a Parisian hotel. While not entirely private due to surrounding buildings, the terrace offers a sense of tranquility.
If you’re a devoted Oscar Wilde fan, you’ll be tempted to book this suite. However, if your budget is tighter, the downstairs bar is a worthy alternative.
Exploring the Sixth Arrondissement: Beyond l’Hôtel
The sixth arrondissement is full of treasures, from the charming Luxembourg Gardens to the decadent Cafe de Flore.
So, explore the neighborhood! You can find more details about our findings in the sixth arrondissement here [link to article]
For an even deeper dive into this fascinating district, check out our podcast episode [link to podcast] and YouTube video [link to video] on the sixth arrondissement.
And don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel [link to YouTube channel] for weekly travel vlogs.
Special thanks to our Patreon members for their continued support and to Charlotte Pleasants for her contributions to this piece.
