Paris, the City of Lights, is a place that consistently captures hearts and imaginations around the world. Its charming, walkable neighborhoods, shaped by centuries of culture and history, offer a unique allure that draws visitors from every corner of the globe. While the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame Cathedral stand as iconic symbols of the city, this article dives into a different side of Paris: the hidden gems and alternative experiences that lie beyond the familiar tourist attractions.
A City in Transformation
Paris is in the midst of an exciting transformation, preparing for the Summer 2024 Olympics – its first in a century. As the city gears up for this global event, its venerable metro is undergoing a makeover, with expanded lines and a focus on modernization. While exploring the city, keep an eye out for the layers of urban renewal taking place, which contrast beautifully with the millefeuille of art and architecture that defines Paris.
The Artful Escape: Beyond the Louvre
While Paris boasts over 100 museums, smaller, less crowded venues offer a truly enriching experience. The Gustave Moreau Museum, a house-museum south of Montmartre, is a hidden gem. Inside, you’ll find the apartment of the 19th-century painter Gustave Moreau, an early exponent of Symbolism, where his personal collection and art are displayed from floor to ceiling. The highlight, however, is the magnificent studio on the upper floors, connected by a winding wrought-iron staircase. This space showcases Moreau’s mysterious depictions of Salomé, the Jewish princess, as well as stunning unfinished paintings, including “The Three Magi.”
For a glimpse into Paris’s Romantic-era artistic salons, visit the Musée de la Vie Romantique, a charming museum offering a glimpse into a different era. The museum is free to enter, except for special exhibitions.
Finding Peace and History in Montmartre
Nestled beneath a viaduct, the Montmartre Cemetery offers a peaceful respite from the bustling city. This historic cemetery is the final resting place of celebrated French painters, authors, and performers. Explore the cemetery’s unique character, where less-famous tombstones stand alongside those of renowned figures, each with their own story to tell.
The cemetery is free to explore, and visitors can use the laminated maps available at the entrance to locate specific graves. Be sure to find the grave of the dancer and choreographer Vaslav Nijinsky, adorned with a statue depicting him in one of his most famous roles, Petrushka. Other notable tombstones include a life-size statue of the singer Dalida, a bust of the author Émile Zola, and the raised grave of the courtesan Alphonsine Duplessis, who inspired Alexandre Dumas’s 19th-century novel “Lady of the Camellias.” Visitors often leave camellias as a tribute to her memory.
The Quirky Side of Montmartre: Le Bar à Bulles
While the iconic Moulin Rouge draws tourists from far and wide, few discover the hidden bar tucked behind its red windmill. Le Bar à Bulles, with a separate entrance from a small pedestrian street, is a refreshingly quirky alternative to the tourist magnets of the area. Indulge in a glass of Anaë gin, produced in southwestern France, with tonic, and savor a cheese plate on the leafy rooftop or in the colorful indoor space. Concerts and events add to the lively atmosphere on select nights.
The New Wave of Cuisine: Bistronomie in Montmartre
Bistronomie, a fusion of the homely bistro and high-end gastronomy, is taking Paris by storm. Many restaurants in Montmartre are embracing this trend, offering seasonal ingredients and innovative twists on classic French cuisine at prices that are still affordable.
Venture north of the Montmartre Cemetery to Le 975, a bright, newly opened establishment led by the Japanese-born chef Taiki Tamao. This restaurant offers smart twists on French cuisine and unusually warm service by Parisian standards.
For a more adventurous dining experience, head to Polissons, on a busier street. Here, you’ll find a six-course mystery menu, with options for standard or vegetarian preferences. If available, try the oysters with umami lemon – a truly delightful starter.
The Thrill of Drag: Madame Arthur
For a unique entertainment experience, visit Madame Arthur, a Montmartre drag cabaret with a rich history dating back to 1946. The resident troupe of singers and musicians performs live nightly, showcasing the recent renaissance of drag in France. Skip the main-stage show at 8 p.m. and opt for the more intimate “recital” at 11 p.m. Here, performers showcase their talents with a diverse repertoire, from opera to French translations of American pop.
Madame Arthur is also experimenting with a new English-language show at 10 p.m. on Thursdays to Saturdays. After the show, dance the night away in one of the club spaces, where shorter drag performances take place at 1 a.m., 2 a.m., and 2:50 a.m.
Urban Oasis: Parc de la Villette
On the northern edge of Paris, the sprawling Parc de la Villette is a haven of greenery, canals, and cultural spaces. This 136-acre park, once overlooked by tourists, has become increasingly popular in recent years, thanks to its gentrification and the addition of new venues and events.
The park is adorned with distinctive red structures designed by the deconstructivist architect Bernard Tschumi in the 1980s. Visit the futuristic Paris Philharmonic, inaugurated in 2015, and explore the Grande Halle, where hip-hop dancers frequent the large dance floor.
The park also boasts funky thematic playgrounds, including the Garden of Childhood Fears, a mysterious forest filled with strange sounds, and the Garden of the Dragon, featuring a slide shaped like the dragon’s tongue. In the summer, cool off in the outdoor swimming space of the nearby Bassin de la Villette. On rainy days, the Cité des Sciences provides family-friendly science exhibits.
A Culinary Haven: Ventrus at La Villette
At the intersection of the Ourcq and St.-Denis canals, you’ll find Ventrus, a portable restaurant that will be staying at La Villette through the 2024 Paris Olympics. Guest chefs rotate every few weeks or months, offering short, seasonal menus. Enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and stunning views from the terrace, perfect for people-watching by the water.
A Taste of Parisian Life: Jardin 21
For a more relaxed experience, walk east along the Ourcq canal to Jardin 21, a transformed community and cultural space. Explore the large vegetable garden, open to visitors, and enjoy a craft beer while mingling with locals on a lazy Sunday afternoon.
This exploration of Paris provides a glimpse into the city’s vibrant and ever-evolving character. From hidden museums and peaceful cemeteries to trendy bars and innovative restaurants, the City of Lights offers a myriad of experiences beyond the familiar landmarks. Whether you’re seeking art, history, or simply a unique taste of Parisian life, this city is sure to captivate and enchant you.
